The trulli (the local name for the cone-roofed stone houses; trullo in singular) have been here for centuries and some of them are still inhabited by tiny Italian grannies who refuse to swap their one-room stone house for an apartment in a block of flats in the new part of the town. Fair enough, we reckon.

Alberobello, Rione Monti | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

History of the trulli fairy houses

According to legend, the trulli (from Greek trullos – dome) were invented as a cunning plan devised by the inhabitants of the village when the local count introduced a tax on every newly built house. To avoid paying, the locals started building these stone, storehouse-like structures to mislead the tax collectors. If necessary, they could be dismantled in a matter of hours because the walls were dry-stone. The whole family used to live in one room, with the roof space often being separated with a plank “ceiling” where the kids were sent to sleep. Today, the trulli are protected by UNESCO.

Alberobello, Rione Monti | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

How to explore the trulli in Alberobello

The trulli in Alberobello are concentrated in two areas, while the rest of the town has normal Italian-style streets and buildings.

Rione Monti is the most touristy area with countless souvenir shops. Some of the trulli here have become restaurants, hotels or AirBnBs.

Alberobello | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

One of the most emblematic photo sites in the town is the row of houses with pagan symbols on their roofs. The truth is there is nothing mystical about these symbols – they were ordered by the local tourist office in the 1930s because Mussolini was expected to pay a visit to the town.

Alberobello, the “mystical” signs on the roofs | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

I’d recommend spending more time in Aia Piccola – the other trulli area that has thankfully remained trinket-free. This is actually a residential area where many of the houses are still inhabited; it’s much calmer than its noisy neighbor, and you’ll probably be one of just a handful of tourists around.

Alberobello, Aia Piccola | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

One of the best views of the trulli comes from the vantage point of Belvedere Santa Lucia (see the map below).

There are a few small museums showcasing the story of the houses. The biggest of them is the Museo del Territorio, which features 10 trulli and allows you to get an idea of what life was like in Alberobello in the past.

Where to see more trulli

While Alberobello is the most famous and most densely concentrated of Italy’s trulli towns, it is not the only one. Traditional stone houses are scattered around the whole Valle d’Itria region.

Alberobello, Rione Monti | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Tips

1. Summer is scorching here and everything closes at noon, so plan to rest between 1 and 5 pm.

2. You probably know this already, but just let us remind you to skip the restaurants with huge signs in English saying “tourist menu” – you will get more food for less money if you walk a few blocks away from the tourist area (tested!).

3. There are many shops selling local products that will let you taste high-quality vinegar, olives and sweets for free.

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The Harry Potter vibe

References to the story of the beloved boy wizard who captured the imagination of a generation can be found all over the city. J.K. Rowling lived and taught English in Porto for two years, and it was actually this city that inspired her to write her iconic novels.

Legend has it that the first passage of Harry Potter was written on a napkin from the famous Majestic Cafe, which Rowling frequently visited. That cafe still functions, though it’s normally full with locals and tourists trying to soak up the atmosphere of those distant days.

Another place Rowling often frequented during her Porto days was the bookshop Livraria Lello. Although often crowded, its Gothic atmosphere, beautiful wooden carvings, winding red stairs and stained glass ceiling evoke images of faraway, magical worlds. Here you can find some of the classics of Portuguese literature, which we encourage you to bring back home so you can get a better understanding of the country.

* There is an entrance fee to the bookstore (4 euro). The fee is, however, deducted from any purchase you might make.

The best Harry Potter references are the students of Porto themselves, or their academic uniforms, to be more exact. When you see them walking the streets wearing their long black robes (called traje académico), you might wonder whether they’ve just finished a class with Professor Snape. Of course, the tradition of wearing these robes is actually a lot older than Rowling’s novel and has been passed through the generations until this day.

The majestic staircase of Livraria Lello – amaianos/Flickr

The old town

The historic center of Porto – Ribeira – is listed as World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Now, it won’t be a surprise for you to learn that medieval buildings and cobbled streets always make me happy – thank god Europe has so many beautiful old towns to explore. This one, however, felt a little different to all the others I’ve been to; more authentic and even somewhat abandoned, but in a good way. Its beautiful tall and narrow buildings are decorated with the colored tiles typical of Portuguese, and after spending some time wandering around there’s a good chance you’ll start asking yourself: “is it really okay to stop every few minutes to admire a beautiful door, or there is something very wrong with me?”

The colors of Porto – Juan Antonio Segal/flickr

The views

Porto is a city built on hills, which means you’re in for some exhausting climbing: up and down, and up and down, and again and again… But it also makes for some incredible views of the city and the river, which winds its way through Porto. Here are some of best viewpoints in the city:

• The Dom Luís I Bridge – with the picturesque Ribeira district on one side, the wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia on the other and the Douro River between them.
• Ribeira – this is the perfect place to enjoy a calm evening sitting by the river, admiring the stillness of the water and the lights of the bridge above it.
• Crystal Palace Gardens – this beautiful eight-hectare park also happens to be the perfect spot for watching the sunset over the river.
• Clerigos Tower – where you’ll be treated with a 360-degree view from the top of a more than 250-year-old tower.
• Farol Molhe do Douro – which offers views of the endless ocean and its crashing waves.

A breathtaking sunset over Porto, as seen from Crystal Palace Gardens – Nesi Zelenkova/ www.203challenges.com

The wine

Porto is famous for its sweet red Port wine, and you’ll be in heaven thanks to the wide variety of local producers to choose from. Cross one of the six bridges and you’ll end up in wine-lovers’ paradise: Vila Nova de Gaia, with its countless wine cellars, each one offering tours and tasting sessions. You can also take a cruise along the Douro River to admire the vine terraces from the water and see where your wine came from.

Barcos rabelos boats used for transporting wine from Gaia to Porto – Güldem Üstün/flickr

The food

One sentence is enough to explain just how good Porto food is: “The world needs nata!” This egg tart pastry can be found in every bakery (and there are a lot of those here), and makes for the perfect breakfast or dessert (and if you ask me, the perfect lunch, dinner or appetizer – basically a dish I’d be happy to live on for the rest of my days).

I wouldn’t mind if there were more Francesinha in the world, as well. Although bread, ham, sausage, steak, melted cheese, tomato and beer sauce, and french fries all together might sound a bit like cardiac arrest – or at least enough to render you immobile for an hour – it is one of the most delicious Portuguese meals. You should definitely try it while in Porto.

You just need nata, don’t you? – Nesi Zelenkova/www.203challenges.com

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The date is 3 June every year.

The place – the remote village of Bulgari.

Accompanied by the sounds of the drum and bagpipes, the fire dancers – called nestinari, are stepping into the embers. They have been keeping the secrets of their mystic ritual for centuries – ever since the time when the Thracian priests were trying to connect with their gods.

This ritual is not just a dance in the embers. It unites legends, rituals, memories and prophecies for the future. What are the secrets of the nestinari and what happens in the beginning of June in the heart of Strandzha Mountain – join us on a journey through the secrets of the ancient rituals.

The five nestinari villages in Strandzha

Kosti, Kondolovo, Bulgari, Gramatikovo and Slivarovo – these are the last five nestinari villages. Every year, the people from these villages made a procession, bringing the icons of Saints Constantine and Helena to the Vlahov Dol area (located almost in the middle of the mountain). Each village had its own wooden bed, on which the icon was placed after being ritually washed. After that, they would perform a korban (animal sacrifice) and finally dance on the hot coals. Unfortunately, this tradition was interrupted in 1941.

Nowadays the last place in Bulgaria where nestinari dances are held is the village of Bulgari. The processions from the five nestinari villages to Vlahov Dol were started again a few years ago (on the last Sunday before 3 June), but the fire dance can only be seen in Bulgari.

Few people know that the nestinari ritual used to last seven full days. Due to the persecution of the nestinari it was shortened to three days, while today it lasts only one.

Not just dancing on fire

Many restaurants at Bulgarian the seaside have shows with dancers on embers but they have nothing to do with the original tradition. Since ancient times, divination is at the heart of the ritual. The nestinari community used to have its own secret life, guided by the lead nestinar. It was lead by a special nestinari calendar and mystic rituals and divination about the future were done throughout the whole year. The peak moment was the day of Sts. Constantine and Helena – 3 June.

It all began thousands of years ago…

Nobody knows exactly when our ancestors danced in the fire for the first time. It is known that thousands of years ago the ancient Thracian tribes performed rituals in the fire as part of their cult of the sun. The circle of fire on the ground was a reflection of the fire disc in the sky. At that time only the king-priest had the right to step on the coals and come into contact with the gods.

… from the pagan dances to the cult of Saint Constantine

Gradually, the pagan nestinari ritual began to Christianize. When the Roman emperor Constantine the Great proclaimed Christianity an equal religion in the fourth century, the nestinari dedicated their dance in the embers to him and his mother Helena as a token of gratitude. Over time the dance acquired some Christian elements, but it was never accepted by the church.

What exactly happens on 3 June?

On the day of Saints Constantine and Helena, early in the morning, the icons of the saints are brought out of the church and taken to the konak building in Bulgari village (a small building in which the main nestinar woman is preparing for the dance). The icons are then draped in red fabric and the nestinari procession heads to the chapel of Saint Constantine, which is located in the forest by the village. There the procession circles the chapel three times counterclockwise, the people pour themselves healing water from a spring and the icon is returned to the konak.

The main nestinar woman (or man) spends the entire day in the konak, where she focuses, prays and prepares to go into a trance. After dark, to the sounds of the drum and bagpipe, she begins making vocal sounds, through which she controls her breathing but also, it is said, communicates with the universe. The nestinari leave the konak in a solemn procession and do three rounds of the church and three rounds of the coals.

After that, the actual dance begins and it lasts 5-10 minutes. Starting from the oldest one, the nestinari pass barefoot through the fiery circle, with the icon in their hands. Finally, the nestinari horo (traditional folk dance) is danced around the fire and everyone else who knows the steps can also join the nestinari.

Nestinari melodies and dances

All fire dancing rituals are performed to the sounds of the holy drum (that is kept in the konak year-round) and the bagpipe. There are three nestinari melodies. The first one is played when the icons are taken from the church on the morning of 3 June. The second one – when the nestinari are getting ready to step into the fire. The third one – during the actual dance in the embers. It is interesting that the nestinari horo begins with the left foot – in Strandzha only two folklore dances start with the left foot, both of them ritual ones.

The last nestinari

In the past, the nestinari ritual used to be passed on through the generations. During the communist period it was forbidden by the authorities and the tradition was broken until the beginning of the 90s. Despite that in 1964 a film was made about the last two nestinari women – Babini Slatini (the film is kept in the town hall of Bulgari).

Nowadays the dances in Bulgari village are not performed by the children of the nestinari families.

In 2009, UNESCO entered nestinari dances in the List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Museum of nestinari

In 2014, The Road of the Nestinari visitor center was opened in Bulgari village. In it archival photos and objects tell about the past of the tradition.

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Demir Baba Тeke has been considered a holy place in Bulgaria for 3,000 years – since the time of the ancient Thracians. The peculiar shrine nestled in greenery welcomes everyone, regardless of their religion, to be enchanted by a number of local legends.

Who was Demir Baba?

Demir Baba was an Alevi saint, a wise man and healer. The Alevis are followers of an isolated branch of Islam, famous for its tolerance towards all other religions. For example, these spiritual people describe the difference between their religion and Christianity as no thicker than “onion skin”.

Demir Baba Teke, Bulgaria | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

What you will see (+ some terminology)

Turbe – a heptagonal tomb

Teke (or khanqah, riban) – a holy place featuring a turbe of an Alevi saint

The turbe is Demir Baba’s tomb. It is built between two rocks, which once served as a Thracian sanctuary. Check out the house next to the tomb, where a small museum offers information about the Alevis and the life of Demir Baba.

If you are searching for God, go, look for him in man – Demir Baba

Demir Baba Teke, Bulgaria | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

The rituals

You can participate in the many rituals that still take place here. Legend has it that in one dry year, Demir Baba touched a rock with his palm. Water started flowing from the rock, creating the spring that now bubbles in the teke`s yard. Wash yourself three times and drink from the water (it is clean). Then, on the way to the teke, tie a cloth to a tree branch for good health. Look for the rock to the left of the turbe; people believe that if they lie here with their head down, then stand up without using their hands, they will be healthy. To the left of the building there is a wall with two holes. Stand a few steps away from the holes and, with your eyes closed, point to them with your index fingers. This tradition is known as “stabbing the witch’s eyes out”. According to the legend, only the righteous succeed.

Stabbing the witch;s eyes at Demir Baba Teke, Bulgaria | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

See also…

Demir Baba teke is part of Sboryanovo Archeological Reserve, which also includes a UNESCO world heritage site – the Thracian Tomb of Sveshtari. Also of interest in the region are the remains of Helis, an ancient Thracian town from the 4th or 3rd century BC, believed to have been the capital of the Getae tribe. Make sure you go to the plateau above the teke to appreciate splendid panoramic views. If you want to see everything, it’s a good idea to spend a whole day in the area. It’s not too far between sights, but it’s best to have a car or a bike.

Useful information

You can visit the teke at any time. It is 12 km from the town of Isperih, passing through the villages of Dragomazh and Malak Porovets. The road through the village of Sveshtari is the same length – 1.5 km from Isperih you will see a sign at the turn-off from the Isperih-Ruse road. Park your car by the grass area, where you’ll see summer houses and Thracian excavations, then take the stairs down to the teke. For more information: Historical Museum of Isperih – +359 8431/4783, www.museumisperih.com (in Bulgarian only, you will have to use Google Translate), www.getika.com.

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What is Meteora?

Meteora is a rock formation near Kalambaka (Central Greece). It’s one of the most impressive monastery complexes in the world. And most importantly, it’s a breathtakingly beautiful example of people’s constant search for spirituality, peace and a connection with the divine – an example how when men and nature unite, ‘otherworldly’ things can happen.

Some 60 million years ago rain, wind, and earthquakes sculpted the unusual rocks of Meteora, leaving a cluster of sandstone and conglomerate megaliths that reach heights of over 550 m (1,800 ft). There is evidence of people inhabiting this area – in caves carved into the rocks – dating back around 20,000 years.

In the 11th century, the first monks started coming here in search of isolation and a connection with God. Three centuries later, in the 14th century, the first monasteries on top of the rocks were built.

What do these rocks look like to you? – Jon Worth/Flickr

The monasteries

Back in those days, the only way to get building materials to the top of the rocks was with ladders, ropes and baskets – a feat that required hazardous work and great determination from the monks. Despite that, they managed to build 24 monasteries by the time the 16th century had arrived.

The monks saw the rock formation and the monasteries on top as the perfect place to retreat from the Ottoman occupation; the only way the peaks could be reached was by a ladder, which could be pulled back if enemies were threatening.

Six of those monasteries are still functioning today: the Great Meteoron, the Varlaam Monastery, the Roussanou Monastery, the Holy Trinity Monastery, the Saint Nicholas Anapafsas Monastery and the St. Stephen’s Monastery.

Great Meteoron Monastery – the oldest and biggest monastery at Meteora / Wikipedia

The activities

The incredible scenery makes Meteora perfect for hiking – there are some guided hiking tours around the rocks that take you to the best viewing points. More adventurous visitors can also try scrambling or traditional rock climbing.

Hand in hand, looking out – Toa Heftiba/unsplash

Fun facts about Meteora, Greece

•  Meteora literally means “suspended in the air“.
•  Meteora is protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
•  During World War II, Nazis bombed the site. Many works of art were stolen during the bombardment.
•  The landmark is featured in the James Bond movie For your eyes only.
•  The Eyrie of Vale of the House of Arryn in Game of Thrones is based on Meteora.
•  In Max Brooks’ novel World War Z, one of the characters who survives the zombie apocalypse escapes to Meteora.

And since the zombie apocalypse is something we should all be well prepared for, pin this post to remind yourself of your future zombie-proof sanctuary:

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That said, there are still a few ways to enjoy the Angkor Temples without every other man and his dog. Here are a few hacks and tricks to help you beat the crowds and skip the lines.

Buy your tickets the day before

If you arrive in Siem Reap in the afternoon, buy your tickets valid from the next day. Make sure you know the correct location of the office – it was changed in 2016 and is now quite far from the Angkor Complex itself. The office is open from 5 am to 5:30 pm, but the lines in the morning are chaotic from as early as 4:30, as all the last-minute tourists try to make it in time for sunrise. Tickets can be valid for one, three or seven days, so plan your sunrise and sunset tours carefully.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat, Siem Reap | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Don’t see too many temples in one day

On the first day, you are incredibly excited to see as much as possible, but then the sightseeing fatigue sets in and just a few hours later you realize you don’t want to see another temple for the rest of your life. This is a common mistake many visitors make. To avoid it, get a three-day or seven-day ticket and explore the Angkor Archaeological Park in small portions. Thus, if you’d planned to see Angkor Thom today but then realize that it’s full of people, you can leave it for tomorrow and move on to your next destination. It’s a good idea to mark the temples you’ve already visited in some way (on your map or your app) because, at some point, it’s impossible to keep track.

Religious blessing at Angkor Wat | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Waking up early won’t help

Everyone arrives before sunrise at Angkor, and while this would usually be a wise tip, waking up early is of no help here. The best times to explore the archaeological site are early morning and late afternoon, because the heat is unbearable at noon.

Ta Prohm (the filming location from Tomb Raider) | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Enter from the East Gate istead of the main West Gate

Assuming you have already seen the sunrise at Angkor Wat, begin the rest of your days by entering from the small East Gate instead of the main West Gate. This will give you the chance to enjoy the temples on this side of the archaeological park without being surrounded by hordes of tourists. No selfie sticks, no elbow-pushing, no vendors.

Angkor Temples | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Go counter-intuitive

The three main attractions at Angkor are Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom (featuring the huge Bayon Temple), and Ta Prohm (the filming location from Tomb Raider). This is where the biggest crowds concentrate. If someone has just one day at Angkor, they will visit these three locations. The logical order of visiting these areas is: 1. Angkor Wat 2. Angkor Thom and 3. Ta Prohm. You can outsmart the crowds and avoid big groups by acting counter-intuitively and starting from the bottom of the list. For example Ta Keo – between Angkor Thom and Ta Prohm – is a ghost temple in the early morning.

Sunrise at Angkor Wat | ©Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Accept that some crowds are inevitable

Everyone wants to see the sunrise at Angkor Wat, but the sight of the hundreds of visitors competing for the best photo spot in the mud by the bank of the pond in front of the temple may be heartbreaking. Accept it. Just like you, everyone wants to experience something they have seen in all those amazing photos. Be patient and tolerant. The same goes for the sunset at Phnom Bakheng and for climbing the Central Angkor Wat Tower, where only 100 people a day are granted access.

Read more: How to eat tarantula in Cambodia (a full guide)

3 simple ways to make friends with Cambodians

Where to see Rafflesia in Thailand – the biggest flower in the world

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A visit to the Rose Valley in Bulgaria in May and June is a must. You’ll see, touch and smell the oil-bearing roses, whose aroma has made them famous around the world, especially for visitors from China and Japan. It’s easy to understand why so many tourists travel thousands of miles to come here.

Why is the Bulgarian rose so special?

The oil-bearing rose Rosa Damascena, grown in the Rose Valley, is a symbol of Bulgaria recognized across the world. It possesses great beauty and a unique fragrance, and is widely recognized as the only rose capable of producing the highest quality rose oil. We can prove it: in almost every expensive French perfume there are several milligrams of Bulgarian rose oil.

Amazingly, the precious liquid is also used as the finest grease in NASA’s space shuttles.

The Rose Valley, Bulgaria | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

How to join the rose picking at the Rose Festival?

The peak season for visiting Kazlanak, from the end of May until the end of June, coincides with the town’s Rose Festival, which has been held for more than a century. During this time, the town’s streets fill with the sweet fragrance of roses. Roll up your sleeves and help pick the rose petals, or see how the precious oil is extracted from the roses. There’s only one condition – you have to get up before sunrise to take part in the work.

Ask at your hotel what’s the nearest rose-picking event (they are usually held in a different village every Saturday and Sunday morning during the Rose Festival).

Rose oil distillation facility in Kazanlak, Bulgaria | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

Don’t miss Kazanlak’s Rose Museum, which displays more than 10,000 exhibits related to rose oil production. It’s the only one of its kind in the Balkans and is located in the Rose Park in the city.

What else can you do in the Rose Valley?

Kazanlak was crowned the capital of the Rose Valley a long time ago, but centuries earlier Thracian kings ruled their empire from this area. The UNESCO-listed Tomb of Kazanlak, located in Tyulbeto Park in the town center, is a masterpiece of antiquity with its exceptional frescoes.

Just a few kilometers from the town, submerged beneath the Koprinka Reservoir, the ancient city of Seuthopolis – the capital of the Odrysian kingdom – lies in its watery grave. Spread across the foot of the mountains, the Valley of the Thracian Kings is home to more than 1,500 Thracian mounds. Some of the most impressive to visit are Golyama Kosmatka (the Tomb if Seuths III), Shushmanets and Ostrusha.

More information about the tombs’ opening hours, admission fees, etc., you will find here.

The bronze head of Seuth III found in Golyamata Kosmatka Mound near Kazanlak | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

Fun fact…

A phial (“muskal” in Bulgarian) is a measurement unit of rose oil, equal to 4.810 grams. Until World War I, the oil was measured in phials (as gold is weighed in carats). One phial of pure rose oil was considered equal to 24 carats of gold.

Food from roses

The rose is not only used for fragrances in the Rose Valley. You can find it served on the table as well. Don’t leave the area without tasting the aromatic rose jam made from the rose petals and the rose liqueur that is a trade mark of the Rose Valley. You can try them during your visit of the Ethnographic Complex Kulata in Kazanlak, part of the History Museum (information here).

Rose jam | © Maria Angelova/203challenges.com

How and when to visit the Rose Valley in Bulgaria?

The Rose Festival takes place during the whole month of June, so you can plan your trip in this month. The most impressive events are held on the weekends. Kazanlak is located 230 km (143 mi) from Sofia, and can be reached by train, by bus or by a rental car.

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