Niš (pronounced Neesh) is the third-largest city in Serbia and a fun day-trip destination both from Sofia, Bulgaria, and Belgrade, Serbia. This humble city will take you on a historical merry-go-round and, if you scratch just beneath the surface, is full of fun things to do.

Here are the best attractions and unusual activities in Niš, as experienced during our last trip (you’ll find a map with all the locations at the end of the article).

#1 Look over the city from the walls of Niš Fortress

Niš Fortress | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Niš Fortress was built by the Ottoman Turks and, despite its historical significance, remains free to visit. Nowadays, families amble along the fortress’ paths, shaded by an abundance of greenery. Children (and sometimes adults) ride the tourist ‘train’, while hip young people wash down beers and chat in cafes. Climb the stairs to get to the top of the main gate, then enjoy views over the city from between the stones. There’s an archaeological hall at the fortress too.

#2 Explore the summer villa of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great (who was born in Niš)

Mediana, the summer villa of Emperor Constantine the Great (the handsome guy on the right) in Niš, Serbia | Photos: © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com and WikiCommons

Niš happens to be the birthplace of the Roman emperor Constantine the Great (if you skipped this history class, he was the first Roman emperor to convert to Christianity and the one who proclaimed tolerance to Christians in the Roman Empire with the Edict of Milan in 313). Constantine’s journey from Niš to the throne was complicated.

Challenge: trace the chain of political events that lead to Constantine’s ascension to the throne of the Roman Empire. 

What you can see today is Mediana, Constantine’s huge summer villa. Most of the findings are not exhibited in situ, so you’ll mainly see floor mosaics and wall foundations. The guides are very friendly and super talented at transferring you back to the fourth century.

#3 Remember the horrific past at Crveni Krst, a Nazi concentration camp

The Nazi concentration camp in Niš, Serbia | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Red Cross Concentration Camp (Crveni Krst) is one of the few Nazi camps that remains completely intact. Communists, Jews, partisans and Serbs were all held here during the Nazi occupation of Serbia in WWII. During your visit you’ll see lines etched into the cell walls by desperate prisoners counting the days of their captivity, as well as photos, stories of prisoners and floors covered in barbed wire.

Counting the days | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

#4 Sit at a table with legendary local writer Stevan Sremac

The monument of Stevan Sremac and Kalča in Niš | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

This lovely urban sculpture is one of the photo hotspots of Niš. Here you can figuratively share shots of rakija (the local highly alcoholic spirit) with Serbian writer Stevan Sremac, his character Kalča the hunter, and Kalča’s faithful dog. From this monument you will see a narrow street branching off from the main pedestrian boulevard – it used to be the main street for the city’s artisans. Today it’s full of cafes and traditional restaurants (kafana) where you can try grilled meat and spicy salads.

#5 See the tower made of skulls

The Skull Tower, Niš | WikiCommons

The Skull Tower (Ćele-kula in Serbian) is a monument to a major battle during the Serbian uprising movement (1804-13). When the 40,000-strong Ottoman army engaged in fighting with 12,000 Serbian revolutionaries, the tragic result was predestined. The dead Serbs were decapitated and their heads were built into the walls of a roadside tower. Only about 50 out of almost 1,000 skulls remain today, because many of the dead people’s relatives risked their lives to steal the skulls and bury them.

#6 Have a glass of wine while soaking in the mineral pools of Niška Banja

Niška Banja (literally Niš Spa) is where your hectic day of galloping through history should end. The spa resort is 10 km away from the center of Niš and is extremely popular in summer thanks to its hotels, swimming pools, and wide range of luxury therapies. There’s even a popular Serbian song about the hot water in Niška Banja (if you have Serbian friends, they’ll be extremely impressed with your local knowledge when you mention this song).

>>> Read more about Serbia

Useful information:

If you visit Niš for a day, you can tour all four of these paid attractions (the Skull Tower, Red Cross Concentration Camp, The Archaeology Museum and Mediana) with a single ticket costing 200 Serbian dinars (around 1.50 euros). Alternatively, you can visit each site separately for 150 dinars per attraction.

Map of the main attractions in Nis:

Tip: 

If you like cycling, Niš is one of the best cities in Serbia to do it. You can see all of the mentioned attractions by bike stopping here and there for a portion of grilled meat, or join a group bike tour. Bicycle rentals and tours you can find at Eco Bike Tours Nis. 

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The trail and the legends

Krali Marko Trails is the largest trail running event in Macedonia (this year taking place for the seventh time), named after a Balkan historical and legendary figure, Krali Marko, known for his heroic feats. He ruled from Marko’s Towers, the hill and fortress above the city of Prilep (where all the trail running races pass). All the races lead you through Marko’s Towers, a natural rock formation that consists of giant granite stones scattered all over the hills. A lot of these rock formations have their own names inspired by real-life objects and animals: the Elephant, the Turtle, the Lion etc.

In 2016, more than 300 runners from 13 countries and and 100+ kids participated in the races.

The races

There are a handful of different all-ages races, as well as a special kids’ race.

– Krali Marko Ultra Trail: 110 km, 5300 m of denivelation, start 22 September, 2017, 11 pm local time, 5 points for UTMB – Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc – ITRA verified.

– Kozjak Trail: 65 km, 3000 m of denivelation, start 23 September, 2017, 8 am local time, 4 points for UTMB – Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc – ITRA verified.

– Kamena Baba Trail: 31 km, 1250 m of denivelation, start 23 September, 2017, 10 am local time.

– Treskavec Trail: 16 km, 800 m of denivelation, start 23 September, 2017, 10 am local time.

– Markukule Trail – Kids’ race: 1 km, start 23 September, 2017, 10:30 am local time.

The trails are quite technical and distinctive, sometimes carved into stones and granite boulders.

When and where: 22/24 September, starting and finishing in the city of Prilep in the southern part of Macedonia. Registration is open from April 1 until September 1.

Courtesy of Krali Marko’s Trails

Courtesy of Krali Marko’s Trails

Courtesy of Krali Marko’s Trails

Courtesy of Krali Marko’s Trails

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This collection of interesting off-the-beaten-path places in Sofia (all recommended by locals!) will take you on an amazing adventure to spots sometimes forgotten even by those who live there. From cozy reading places to the biggest collection of dolls in Bulgaria, and even an original piece of the Berlin Wall, here they are (map below!):

1. Go down into the Catacombs of Saint Sofia Basilica 

Saint Sofia is an important stop of your Sofia tour for at least three reasons:

1. Sofia was named after this basilica, which used to tower on a hill outside the town.

2. Although the church doesn’t look like anything special at first sight, go down the stairs at the left and you will enter a labyrinth of a Roman necropolis that existed here before the church’s construction. Spare at least half an hour for a walk through the Catacombs (there are short movies providing historical background screening down there, too). 

3. You have a special challenge: find the bell tower of the church! *[you’ll be rewarded with the vital clue to this challenge at the end of the article].

Another part of the necropolis, with a separate entrance right opposite the church (but accessible with the same ticket!), is the colorfully decorated Tomb of Honorius. This is one of the newest sights in Sofia, and the only late-antiquity tomb discovered in Bulgaria with its occupant’s name inscribed on it.

Address: 2, Paris Str., Sofia

2. Make a wish at the Russian Church

This golden-domed, Russian-style church is one of the highlights of a trip to Sofia. While most people take a photo and walk on, your challenge is to enter the church (not from the main entrance but from the side door to the left) and write your wish on a piece of paper. Then you should put it in a special box and hope for the late bishop Serafim to work his miracles.

Address: 3, Tsar Osvoboditel Blvd., Sofia

3. Have a beer and play chess at the park in front of the National Theater

… which is in fact officially called the City Garden, but nobody uses its official name – it’s known as the Park in front of the National Theater, and it’s the oldest public garden in the capital. This is where the youth of Sofia gathers for a beer in summer and old men play (and quarrel over) chess all year round. In December, the park hosts the city’s most famous Christmas market.

Address: 5, Dyakon Ignatiy Str., Sofia

4. Find something golden and naked on the facade of the National Theater

While you sip your beer in the company of the local society of chess players, you have another challenge to complete. This is something few Sofia dwellers have noticed on the facade of one of the most beautiful buildings in Sofia. Take a careful look at the figures adorning the National Theater; you’ll spot an angel, whose tiny body part is golden AND suffers from a lack of pants.

Address: 5, Dyakon Ignatiy Str., Sofia

5. Read Bulgarian authors in English at Chitalnyata (The Reading Room)

If you like to read and a glass pavilion in the City Garden sounds like the perfect place to do it, the literary hub of Chitalnyata (ЧиталнЯтА, meaning the Reading Room) is exactly what you need on a rainy day (or in the baking heat of summer). Here you can read books by Bulgarian authors in English, get inspiration from beautiful albums showing photos from Bulgaria or ask for tourist information about Sofia.

Address: 4, Knyaz Alexander I Sq., Sofia

6. Explore the history of Sofia at an interactive exhibit

If you want to learn something about the history of Sofia, the Sofia History Museum offers a fun walk through the past of the city.

Your particular challenges are:

1. Get on (half of) a retro tram to see a movie about the history of trams.

2. Flip through the interactive boards to see old photographs of how people used to dress and what Sofia looked like a century ago.

3. Admire the golden chariot of the Bulgarian King Ferdinand, his golden desk, thrones and a Mercedes from 1905.

4. Find out which Roman emperor was quoted as saying “Sofia is my Rome”. 

5. Go out of the building, turn left and drink mineral water for free from the tap on the museum’s wall. 

Address: 1, Banski Sq., Sofia

7. Feel like a child at the Dolls Museum

Remember your childhood or just stop by for a look at the biggest collection of dolls in Bulgaria – more than 3,000 dolls of all sizes and all ages await you at The Dolls Museum and Art House. In addition, you can also make a doll yourself (if you make a reservation in advance).

Your particular challenge is to find the tiniest doll in the collection.

Address: 34, Tsar Samuil Str., Sofia

8. Touch a piece of the original Berlin Wall

On May 16, 2006, the citizens of Berlin gave a piece of the original Berlin Wall to the citizens of Sofia as a sign of peace and good will. Today the piece is located a one-minute walk from the National Palace of Culture (see the map below).

Fun fact: a few years ago, it was mistakenly painted by municipality workers who thought the graffiti on the monument had been scrawled by local vandals. Afterwards, the original drawings had to be restored. 

9. Try Bulgarian wines at Vino Orenda

Vino Orenda is the only wine shop in Sofia that sells only Bulgarian wines, produced mainly by small family wineries. The knowledgeable shopkeeper will give you the best advice based on your preferences. They often hold themed wine-tasting evenings dedicated to various wine regions or grape varietals. Wine tasting is available upon request too (send them a message on their Facebook page).

Address: 50A, Makedonia Blvd., Sofia

10. Climb a 2,290-m (7,513-ft) peak only a 30-minute drive from Sofia

Sofia is lucky enough to have the high Vitosha mountain only a short drive from the city center, and it’s possible to climb its highest peak – Cherni Vrah – in a day. You can a) take the chairlift from Dragalevtsi district and then hike for around an hour to the peak or b) climb all the way from the outer districts of Sofia to the peak. In both cases, it’s a good idea to take a map or a local with you (on a sunny day, you’ll meet many hikers on the various routes, so you can always ask for directions). There’s a tea house on the top, but expect to wait an eternity for a hot meal or a cold beer.

BONUS: The Buddhist stupa

Although Bulgarians are Orthodox Christian, there is one Buddhist stupa built near the village of Plana. (Read more information about the Buddhist stupa here)

Map of the spots mentioned:

*Answer to the whereabouts of the bell tower of Saint Sofia Basilica: The church doesn’t have a bell tower and the bell is tied to a tree branch against the main entrance.

READ MORE ABOUT BULGARIA

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Old City of Dubrovnik – The Old City is a place you want to get lost in. Numerous narrow streets, small and big squares, marble alleys, churches, beautiful buildings with preserved authentic architecture and stairs leading to the stone walls of the city where the sea welcomes you with its entire expanse. And thousands of boats along the shore, waiting to take you on an unforgettable journey.

Stradun Street (Placa) is the heart of Dubrovnik. This is the main street of the city, full of entertainment, events and catering establishments and shops. The buildings have identical architecture, built of stone and levelled. Each new building in the region should meet the set requirements so as to preserve the stylish look of the environment. Only the Clock Tower, located in the end of the street, dominates over the others with its 31 m height, being one of the symbols of the city.

Big Onofrio Fountain (Velika Onofrijeva Fontana) has 16 sides, each of them having an original mask, the mouth of which is a tap pouring drinking water. This is a perfect place to refresh yourself on a hot day. The fountain was built in the XV century by Italian architect Onofrio della Cava, who built the water supply system of the city. It is located close to the Pile Gate.

The City Walls of Dubrovnik – the entire city is surrounded by defensive stone walls, some 2 km in diameter. There are 12 forts, 15 bastions and 4 round and corner towers. Fort Bokar was built to protect the Gate Pile. Nowadays it hosts some of the events within the Summer Festival held in the city. The walls were constructed in the Middle Ages – XIII-XIV, to protect the city from attacks. While taking a walk in their unique atmosphere, you will also enjoy an incredible view to the shore and the seaport.

Sponza Palace was built in the XVI century when it served as a customs building, monitoring the trade of goods. Its architecture combines Renaissance and Gothic styles. The first school in Dubrovnik was sheltered here, too, as well as the bank and the armoury. Nowadays it stores the state archives and many historical manuscripts.

The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor) was built in the XIV century as the official headquarters of the ruling republic. It is located on Stradun Street and its architecture combines Gothic and Baroque styles. It shelters the Cultural Historical Museum. Here you can see a rich collections of paintings, icons, ceramics, retro furniture, textile, glass and metal pieces of art, as well as many photos.

The Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski samostan) is situated in the northern part of the Old City of Dubrovnik. It is built in a Gothic and Renaissance style. It shelters works of art by Italian and Croatian artists, while the monastery’s garden houses a well from the XIV century, which is still active.

Franciscan Monastery – the Franciscan Church and Monastery complex (Franjevački samostan) is comprised of a monastery, clock tower, XV century well, Baroque church, pharmacy store from the XIV century – the third-oldest in the world, which continues functioning until nowadays, as well as one of the biggest libraries in Croatia with more than 20,000 books, 1,200 of which are old text and musical manuscripts. Generally, there is much to be seen here and there is no risk of getting bored at all.

Fort Lovrijenac is located in the western part of the city, outside the Walls of Dubrovnik, on a 36 m high steep rock that sticks out into the sea. According to legends, the fort was built in only three months to stop the Venetians from constructing their own fort at the same place. Nowadays, it is a scene for many Shakespeare plays performed during the Summer Festival.

Minceta Fortress is the major stronghold of the Old City, placed right between its two gates. It dates back to the XIV century and was reconstructed in the XV century. It is the highest point in the Old City of Dubrovnik and one of the symbols of the city.

St Blaise’s Church (Crkva Sv. Vlaha) was built in 1716. A curious fact is that the previous temple situated at this place survived a powerful earthquake back in 1667 but few decades later (1706) it burnt down to the ground. Venetian Marino Gropelli is the architect of the church. There is a gold-plated statue of St Blaise at the main altar, made by local artists in the XV century. In one of his hands the Saint holds a scale model of Dubrovnik the way the city looked before the 1667 earthquake. St Blaise (Sveti Vlaho in Croatian) is the patron saint of the city of Dubrovnik and there are celebrations honouring the saint organised every year.

Lokrum Island is situated half a kilometre away from the coastline of Dubrovnik and its green hills can be seen from afar. There is a botanical garden with plants from all over the world on the island. Your memories from this place will be sweet with eucalyptus. The island is around 100 m above sea level. There is an old French stronghold atop of the hill. The way up to it is very exhausting but the nice view to the shores of Dubrovnik seen through the green trees is worth it.

The Elaphiti Islands (Elafitski otoci) is a small archipelago with a dry and warm climate, long summer and very short winter. A perfect place to lie under the shadow of the palm trees with a cocktail in your hand. The Elaphiti Islands include the islands of Sipan, Lopud, Kolocep, Daksa, Ruda, Misnjak, Jakljan, Kosmec, Golec, Crkvina, Tajan and Olipa. Sometimes Lokrim is considered part of the Elafits, too. Here you can also find dense forests and spacious beaches. You can reach the island by ferryboat from Dubrovnik, running at regular intervals few times a day.

With a cable car to Srd Mountain – Please yourself with this unforgettable experience – take a ride to the Srd Mountain with a cable car. The top of the mountain offers a beautiful view to the shore. You can reach Srd Mountain by bike, too, riding amidst the rich mountain greenery.

A boat trip – After a long day of strolling down the streets, a boat trip will have a very relaxing effect. You will enjoy the shores of Dubrovnik from the sea and pass by some of the beaches. You may take a boat from the old port and reach the new one, or the other way round, or you may sail to one of the nearby islands. One of the best ways to enjoy your boat trip is by traveling in super luxury yachts and discover the magnificent waters of Dubrovnik. Feel the sea breeze into your hair. Full steam ahead!

Dubrovnik Summer Festival – every year the city turns into a big scene from the start of July until mid-August. Dances, music, opera, ballet, theatre – every single day. The citizens of Dubrovnik never give up and even when there are no available places they enjoy the shows from the windows of their homes. Everyone is invited, feel welcomed to the festival!

Beaches of Dubrovnik – there are both central and numerous hidden beaches where you can find peace and privacy. Most of the beaches in Dubrovnik are rocky. Babin Kuk beach is the most popular one and if you want to visit it, you should go there early in the morning because later on it will be impossible to find a place. There are several smaller, picturesque beaches in the Old City but they are hardly accessible. The Plat beach is located few kilometres away from the city, it is rocky, wide enough and not too crowded.

Have some seafood – squids, clams, white fish, crabs, cuttlefish, octopus, shrimps, whatever you order, it will be the right choice because Croatia is famous for its tasty, mouth-watering seafood, while the locals do their best to provide fresh products every day. Don t forget a glass of nice wine. Cheers! Or Živjeli! in Croatian.

Try orahnjaca – a traditional Croatian sweet dish with walnuts, a perfect end to the delicious lunch or dinner. Bon appetit!

Shops in Dubrovnik – the streets in Dubrovnik are full of stands selling souvenirs, spices, lace, tea, textile, jewellery, and everything you can imagine. The fashion stores for clothes, shoes and accessories are found in the Old City, as well as on Stradun Street. DOC Kerum, on the other hand, is the biggest trade centre in Dubrovnik where you can buy everything, including home appliances and furniture.

Night life in Dubrovnik – Latino and jazz clubs, discotheques with electronic music, cocktail bars with live music, Irish pubs – whatever you like. There are many entertainment establishments in the Old City, too, as well as on Stradun Street and along the beaches.

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Overview

Turkish cuisine is a perfect mix of flavors and ingredients. It is mainly derived from Ottoman cuisine – and bearing in mind how big and ethnically diverse the Ottoman Empire was, it is easy to understand why influences from at least four different cultures can be found in Turkish food today: Balkan, Asian, Arabian and Mediterranean. Though typical dishes vary across the different parts of the country, there are some common key ingredients that can be found almost universally: lamb, beef, rice, eggplants, peppers, onions and of course – for Turkey’s famous desserts – pistachios, almonds and hazelnuts.

Some must-tries

You can’t get a taste of authentic Turkish food without trying the meal that made the Imam (an Islamic Leader) faint – at least that is the legend behind the name of the famous onion and tomato stuffed eggplant dish “Imam Bayildi”. The name literally translates as “the Imam fainted” and the story goes like this: one day the wife of the Imam cooked this meal and it looked so delicious that the Imam fainted just at the sight of it.

Another star of Turkish cuisine is rice – pilaf – which is served as a side dish with almost every meal. The most popular and easiest version of this is just plain rice, cooked in water and stirred through with butter, though sometimes tomatoes, chickpeas, eggplant and various spices can be added.

And since one of the few well-known truths about life is that “pizza is always a good idea”, while in Turkey you can substitute that for what is often referred to as “the Turkish pizza” – lahmacun. The meal consists of thin dough topped with minced meat and vegetables, then sprinkled with parsley and lemon juice. It goes very well with ayran (a salty yogurt drink) and is a relatively cheap, fast snack.

Lahmacun

The sweet side of life in Turkey

Think of the sweetest thing you’ve ever eaten. Multiply that by three and you get the flavor of Turkey’s most famous dessert: baklava. Today’s baklava recipes date back to at least the 15^th century, though the initial time and place of its origin are still debatable. What’s for sure though is that baklava is one of the most popular snacks to eat between meals or with a cup of tea. Traditionally it is made from filo pastry filled with pistachio, almonds or hazelnuts and held together with syrup.

A lighter and rather fresher dessert is the Turkish muhalebbi – a creamy, milk-based pudding. It is thickened by rice flour, topped with syrup and often flavored with cinnamon, saffron and some pistachios on top.

And a trip to Turkey doesn’t even count if you don’t return home with some treats like the delicious Turkish delight (gelatinous candies made from starch and sugar), tahin (crushed sesame seeds), flour or semolina helva, or marzipan (Turkish marzipan is considered to be among the best in the world).

The coffee culture

Turkish coffee is a big part of the country’s cultural heritage. Drinking coffee is a social ritual here and has been so ever since the 16^th century, when the first coffee houses appeared in Istanbul. In fact, the Turkish lifestyle is so influenced by the beverage that even the world for breakfast (“kahvalti”) translates literally as “before coffee”. It plays a big part in some special occasions like engagements, when the bride’s coffee-making skills are judged by the groom’s family.

When you are done with your coffee, it is common for your hostess in Turkey to use the leftover ‘mud’ in the bottom of the cup for fortune telling and discovering your true thoughts and feelings.

There are some special techniques for brewing Turkish coffee that make it unlike any other. The coffee is first blended, then roasted and ground. Some special tools are needed from this point on, like the copper boiling pot (cezve) in which the coffee slowly brews, and the artistic ceramic cups in which it is served.

The tea culture

Turkish tea is black and strong and served boiling hot in a tulip-shaped glass. In the past century it has become the drink of choice for most people and is sure to be offered to guests at Turkish people’s homes. Just like coffee, there is a specific ritual for preparing Turkish tea – in a double-level teapot made specially for that purpose. First the water is poured into the bottom level, and some herbal leaves placed in the upper one. When the water starts boiling, part of the liquid rises to the top one for about 15–20 minutes. The strong drink is then served along with the rest of the water, which can be added to dilute the strength of the tea, depending on the person’s individual preferences.

The street food

The Turkish kebab that can now be found all over the world has an interesting origin. When Turkish soldiers were away from home, they used their swords to grill meat. One cook from Bursa – Iskender – took that idea, but decided to place the rotisserie vertically instead of horizontally. In doing so he became the father of the most famous Turkish kebab – the döner kebab – which is well known as one of the most delicious and popular street snacks all across Turkey (and the whole world, really!).

Another on-the go breakfast favored by a lot of Turkish people, especially in Istanbul, is the simit, which is actually one of the symbols of the city. It is easy to understand why when you smell the tempting aroma of the freshly-baked, sesame-encrusted bread rings early in the morning while the city is still waking up.

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But it’s not all bass and bling. Belgrade also offers a ludicrous selection of places to enjoy an afternoon beer overlooking the river(s), or a quiet evening drink with friends. So grab your BusPlus card – we’re heading to some of the White City’s best and most relaxed watering holes.

Here’s a map of all the venues to help you plan your route:

Samo Pivo

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Takav dan. #samopivo

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Samo Pivo means ‘only beer’. Remember that Serbs can be very literal; you really can only get beer here. But what a selection of beer it is! Samo Pivo’s beer bible has more than 100 options from all around the world, as well as an ever-changing selection of brews on tap. The spacious, industrial-style terrace is one of the best places in Belgrade to begin a boozy afternoon.

Blaznavac

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This moustache-themed bar in the old neighborhood of Dorćol has it all: beer, wine, rakija (a traditional Serbian spirit), food, barbers’ chairs and even a horse-drawn carriage. The unusual seating and eccentric décor make Blaznavac seem like some kind of incredible, acid-trip-induced other world that you’ll wish you never had to leave.

Dorćol Platz

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Naar de rommelmarkt in Belgrado

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The sketchy, post-industrial streets of lower Dorćol are undergoing a revitalization, and Dorćol Platz is leading the charge. This former wasteland has been converted into a super cool courtyard that is now home to regular events and performances. You can juggle your drink while playing table tennis, attend a craft workshop, or simply relax under the sun.

Zaokret 

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Nedjelja u Zaokretu #36mountains #zaokret #silkscreen #exhibition

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Zaokret just drips hipster. Spilling out into the inner-city nightlife hub of Cetinjska, this trendy bar is all about craft beers, designer beards and DJs playing underground Scandinavian electro from the late ’90s on vinyl. Oh, you’re not into Röyksopp? How mainstream…

Ljutić

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Eden like 🌺 #vscocam

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You’ll think you’ve somehow discovered Wonderland when you step into this cute courtyard bar. Floral designs, colorful graffiti and even a treehouse(!) create a fairytale-like atmosphere that makes Ljutić perfect for a date or a lazy afternoon. Enjoy the ambiance with a glass of homemade wine, a cocktail, or even just a cup of tea.

Villa Maska

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Plan za ovu nedelju u Masci je više nego zanimljiv i potrudili smo se da kao i svake nedelje provod počinje već utorkom kod nas, uz sjajan program, najbolje koktele i najukusnija jela👌🏻 Utorak: ❤LOVE DAY ON TUESDAY -Cocktail night ❤Za mix pultom DJ Goran Starčević od 21h Sreda: Sjajan DJ Nebojša Intruder koji se nalazi za mix pultom od 21h i vrti najveće hitove 👌🏻🎶 Četvrtak : DJ Sale Groovyman i back to the 80s od 21:30h 🎶 Petak: 🎶Electric Funx🎶- najbolja žurka na petak 13ti, ovaj bend uvek donosi sjajnu energiju i odličan provod🎶❤️ Subota: Sjajni De Puta Madre- uvek fenomenalni provod sa njima, garantuju najbolju subotu u Villa Masci od 22h ❤️🎶 Osmeh i dobro raspoloženje obavezni, rezervacija poželjna na broj: 062221873, Vaša Villa Maska

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Maska is one of a kind. Located in the fancy neighborhood of Vračar, just a stone’s throw from the iconic Sveti Sava temple, this bar/restaurant might just be the most elaborately decorated drinking establishment you’ll ever see. Paintings and artifacts from all corners of the globe decorate every inch of space on the walls, and most of the furniture looks like it cost several thousand bucks a pop. Try not to think about how the owners can afford all this and just enjoy your surprisingly affordable meal and cocktail combination. You’ll know you’ve reached Maska when you see the grass-covered car out the front.

Brodić

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#brodic #savariver #wood #sun #brodicnasavi

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Never was there a better place to while away a sunny afternoon than this floating oasis of tranquillity on the Sava. Brodić literally means ‘little boat’, and this bar is indeed an old wooden boat – with a shaded floating deck added on for good measure. Grab a seat at an outdoor table, order a handmade pizza and a frosty Paulaner, and settle in for the city’s finest sunset view.

Stenka

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MatOranti. #ig_belgrade #most #stenka #nightlights #bridge #mostnaadi

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Just down the river from Brodić – hidden away behind Belgrade Fair – is a traditional Serbian gem. Stenka is part fish restaurant, part kafana (a traditional Serbian tavern), all fun. Share a bowl of riblja čorba (fish soup), order a plate of girice (bite-sized fried fish) and try the homemade wine. Make sure you have a couple of hundred dinars on hand to tip the sweaty tamburaši band, who will serenade you with traditional Serbian songs until you just have to get up and dance on the table.

Vox

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A post shared by Vox-Blues club (@voxbluesclub) on Oct 9, 2017 at 7:17am PDT

Belgrade’s original blues club looks like an abandoned house from the outside, but open the wobbly gate and you’ll find an unexpected slice of Americana. This smoky, cabin-style bar nestled on the hill in Banovo Brdo hums with live gigs most nights. Don’t be intimidated by the long-haired bikers and beardie music nerds; they’re usually up for a chat and a beer.

Gavez

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🌳

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Bonus points for finding this secluded forest bar on your first attempt. Hidden away in a peaceful corner of Ada Ciganlija, Gavez is a hippie hangout offering cheap drinks, home-cooked meals and a beer garden shaded by leafy green trees. If it starts to rain, grab your drinks and find a table inside the quirkily decorated wooden house.

Paradoks

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#refreshing #cocktails #friday #aperitivorosato #aperitivorosatoramazzotti #rosatomio

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Hop on a water taxi from Ada across to New Belgrade, then turn left. You’ll soon reach Paradoks, a floating bar that not only offers fruity cocktails and comfortable lounge chairs, but also serves as the perfect place to take a dip in the river. Park yourself on one of the bar’s rubber rings and let it do the floating for you.

Srpska Kuća Piva

Наточи, понеси и другима однеси! 🙂 Ми смо се потрудили да за све наше драге госте издвојимо неке од најбољих домаћих занатских пива из Србије! Добродошли! #српскакућапива #пивозапонети

A post shared by Српска кућа пива (@srpskakucapiva) on Aug 14, 2017 at 11:53am PDT

A micropub in the old socialist blocks of Belgrade? Yep, that’s a thing. This tiny, cozy bar’s name literally translates as ‘Serbian House of Beer’, which should be a good sign in anyone’s book. You can choose from around 20 Serbian craft beers, all on tap and all for insanely low prices. After all, you are in Studentski Grad: the neighborhood built to house Belgrade’s thrifty student community.

Lakat

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Štek bašta. Ako ne želite da vas primete tu smo mi! #gdenapivo #pivo #beer

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The old Austro-Hungarian town of Zemun – now incorporated into Belgrade’s urban sprawl – offers some great spots to grab a drink. Nestled among these cobblestone streets, Lakat’s stylish design contrasts with the filthy but fun ex-Yugoslav punk rock blasting from the stereo system. Even if the loud music is not to your taste, the range of artisan beers and the unbelievably tasty BBQ ribs definitely will be.

BONUS: Magic Garden

Okay, this last bar isn’t so much of a bonus as a punishment, or a last-ditch attempt to get a drink. We’re assuming after your bar crawl that you’ve somehow made it back to the city center and are looking to finish off your night with one last 4am tipple. Magic Garden is the place for you, assuming that you no longer have any standards. Make your way across from Republic Square, through the passage and into this unbearably smoky den, where you’ll laugh, cough and drink the night away, only to pay for it all the next morning…

***

So, there you have it: a tour of Belgrade and a hangover to remember! Tell us if you’ve found any other amazing bars on your Belgrade travels.

Nick Johns-Wickberg is an Australian traveller/writer/digital nomad/lost cause. When he’s on the road, he assumes his alter ego: The Tragic Traveller. Nick currently lives in Belgrade, Serbia, where he spends his time eating, drinking, wandering and – very occasionally, when he absolutely has to – working.

Pin it for later because you never know when you will need a good list of cool and unusual bars in Belgrade:

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Try to ignore the eyes watching you from all roofs in the historic center

You don’t even have to be paranoid to freak out at the feeling that someone (or something) is watching you all the time as you stroll through the historic center. Are they watching you or are they just sleepy and trying to close their eyelids? The City With Eyes, a.k.a. Sibiu, got this interesting architectural influence from the Germans centuries ago. Urban legends had it that these attic windows – designed to appear as if they are looking down on you – were added to control and monitor the population. They did their job perfectly.

The roofs with eyes in Sibiu, Romania | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Visit the square where people were once kept in cages

Okay, this is a bit of an overreaction: don’t imagine a zoo-like scene but more like a kind of public humiliation for those who didn’t respect their neighbors. Grand Place (or Piața Mare in Romanian) has been the main stage of urban stories for centuries, and this is where a cage was installed for a little more than 30 years in the 1700s. Its purpose? To lock up people caught disturbing the city at night.

Sibiu, Romania | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Explore the home of homeopathy at the Pharmacy Museum

This museum dedicated to old-time remedies is set in a more than 400-year-old Gothic house (where a pharmacy called The Black Bear used to exist). Peek into jars with medicinal plants and potions arranged in long rows, see your travel partner’s nose enlarged through the glass of the measuring flasks, then head to the back room dedicated to homeopathy and Samuel Hahnemann, the father of homeopathy. It is known that Samuel spent two years in Sibiu, where a local nobleman offered him a librarian and a physician to help him with his research.

Tell the truth and cross the Bridge of Lies

Think of the biggest lie you can tell and try to cross the iron Bridge of Lies. It was built to replace an older wooden bridge, which according to legend could tell if a person crossing it was telling the truth or not. If the bridge ‘heard’ a lie, it started shaking and squeaking. Today’s iron bridge is the oldest of its kind in Romania, and the second oldest in Europe.

The Bridge of Lies, Sibiu, Romania | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

See trophies at the August von Spiess Hunting Museum

August von Spiess was a famous hunter whose legacy was preserved in his mansion, turned into a museum by his daughters. The walls of the rooms are covered in animals from both Romania and abroad (you’ll see lots of African game trophies) and hunting arms, while the yard is green and serves as the perfect spot for a short rest by the pond with the turtles.

Get the best rooftop view from the Evangelical Cathedral

Rooftop views make my heart rate rise (confession time: sometimes I even enter skyscrapers illegally, um, without authorization to have a small bottle of wine on the roof or on a terrace). If you also get overly euphoric at the mere thought of a high place with a panorama of the city, head to the Evangelical Cathedral (Catedrala Evanghelică C.A. Sfânta Maria). As Sibiu is a really cool city, it also has a second notable vantage point: the Council Tower (where the view is not as rewarding but still beautiful).

The view from the Evangelic Cathedral in Sibiu

Travel back in time at Astra open-air museum

While you wait for time travel to be invented (or finally disclosed by the military as it is rumored to be a fact already), you can take a short drive out of the center of Sibiu to experience the next best thing. Astra Museum spreads across a huge area where you can amble among wooden and stone houses, windmills and wooden churches. When you get tired, sit down for a drink or a bite at one of the traditional inns.

Astra Museum near Sibiu, Romania

If you prefer to explore the city with locals – see tours in Sibiu by Romanian friend.

Here are the aforementioned spots on the map of Sibiu (except the roof eyes, they are all over the historic center):

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See also: Everything You Need to Know Before Traveling to Romania

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Bulgarian wine in short

These lands have been covered in vineyards since the time of the ancient Thracians. Besides world favorites like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay, you can taste local wines from a bunch of Bulgarian grape varietals. There are scores of wineries inviting visitors for wine-tasting tours in all corners of Bulgaria.

Mavrud

This varietal is grown only in Bulgaria and it’s one of the oldest grapes found in the country. The grapes are tiny, dark blueish to black, sweet and covered by a thick skin.

How to combine Mavrud and food: pizza Margherita, smoked and semi-matured yellow cheese, all kinds of pork, kebapche and kyufte (local barbecue-grilled minced meat), moussaka (a local baked dish with potatoes and minced meat), lamb.

Misket

There are many varieties of Misket (a grape similar to Muscat) that are widely grown all over Bulgaria. If you can’t try them all, make sure you at least sample Red Misket (Cherven Misket). Fun fact: Red Misket is actually used to produce wonderful white wines. You will recognize a Misket wine by its saturated hay-yellow color and intense aroma.

How to combine Red Misket with food: pasta cooked with savory or red sauces, Shopska salad (tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, and fresh cheese), vegetarian dishes with broccoli and cauliflower, fish, grilled seafood, poultry dishes, served in special covered serving dishes based on the bento box design for example 🙂

Dimyat

Dimyat is another ancient varietal that is also grown in Greece, Macedonia, Serbia, Romania, Turkey and Russia. Its green-yellow grapes are used to create dessert white wines.

How to combine Dimyat with food: vegetarian dishes with maize and peas, salads containing onions and mayonnaise-based salads, grilled fish, chicken dishes.

Rubin

Rubin (or Ruby) is a hybrid created in the 1940s in the Bulgarian city of Pleven using Nebbiolo and Syrah. It is used to produce delicious sweet and semi-sweet wines.

How to combine Rubin with food: pasta and risotto with cream- and cheese-based sauces, vegetarian dishes with peppers, mature yellow cheese (cheddar, gouda), smoked meat, pork and sausages.

Shiroka Melnishka Loza (Broad-leaved Melnik)

This old-time Bulgarian varietal ripens late – in October – and in the 20th century it was used as a base for many hybrid varietals. One of these hybrids is Melnik 55, grown only in the valley of the Struma River and a symbol of the Melnik wine region.

How to combine Shiroka Melnishka Loza with food: fresh cottage cheese, feta cheese, vegetarian dishes with mushrooms, dishes with red meat.

Pamid

Pamid was cultivated back in the times of the Thracians and it used to be the most widespread Bulgarian varietal. Its tiny red grapes with thin skin are used to produce red table wine for mass consumption.

How to combine Pamid with food: banitsa (a local baked pastry made with cheese, spinach or cabbage), cheese fried in egg and bread crumbs, fish with tomato sauce, fish soup, baked chicken with potatoes.

Gamza

Another old-time Bulgarian varietal that makes an aromatic red table and dessert wine. You will recognize a good Gamza wine by its pale ruby color and dominant raspberry aroma.

How to combine Gamza with food: pasta, risotto and vegetarian dishes with mushrooms, soft cheese like camembert and brie, lamb, sweet baked pumpkin with honey and walnuts.

The Wine Day in Bulgaria, Trifon Zarezan

Bulgarians cherish their wine so much that they have a special day dedicated to it: Trifon Zarezan, February 14. Trifon Zarezan coincides with the Valentine’s Day celebrations to melt in the perfect combination of love and wine.

>> Read more about Bulgaria.

Secret places in Sofia: 10 fun travel challenges for true explorers (+map)

How to practice aylyak and be happy in Bulgaria

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The Salt Mine in Turda (Salina Turda)

Going down Salina Turda in Romania, is like travelling to the center of the Earth. After a walk through the gallery at the entrance, whose walls are covered in salt crystals (it is indeed salt, you don’t have to lick it to make sure – we’ve already done that!), follows a string of galleries, who seem taken out of a storybook. However, the part of the mine that makes traveling all the way worth the trip, are the large underground halls. Their magnitude is beyond imagination.

Transfagarasan Highway

Also famous as the Road of Ceausescu (Nicolae Ceausescu, the ex-dictator of Romania during the communist times), the Transfagarasan highway in Romania is probably the most scenic driving road in the country. Once you have arrived here, you are met by 90 km of steep turns and curves, through the highest parts of the Carpathian Mountains. This twisted road was built during the invasion of the Soviet armies in Czechoslovakia (in 1968). Ceausescu was afraid that his country may share Czechoslovakia’s fate, and decided to prepare in advance, by building a military road through the mountains.

Rupea Fortress

This impressive fortress can be seen from the road, connecting Brasov to Targu Mures, but those who pull of the road to see it up close are few. The fortress has been standing its ground since Dacian times, but was later remodeled. The water from its well is drinkable.

The Village of Buzescu

Дорого богато #балканскоелето #romania #buzescu

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If you are looking for an unusual tourist landmark, this is it. This place is all about the sea of colorful facades, enormous external staircases, balustrades, Greek columns, and a bountiful display of towers. If you think that this is a movie décor, you are seriously wrong. The village of Buzescu is completely real, and is located only a few kilometers away from the Romanian city of Alexandria. The huge houses you’ll see are occupied by the local gypsy barons. According to the local legend, they have accumulated their wealth by trading in metals.

Craiova

This is one of the biggest Romanian cities – lively, with a university, an airport, and beautifully restored buildings, at more than 100 years old. What is more, Craiova is located only 80 km away from the Vidi-Calaft border. As of recently, this is a wonderful place to cross into neighboring Bulgaria, as you can do it quickly and easily, using Danube Bridge 2, also called New Europe Bridge.

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Over the Bistrica River there are several small bridges bearing the ceaseless buzz of tourists of all nationalities. In the Old Town of Prizren, you can sit at one of the outdoor cafes, a Turkish tea house or any of the grillrooms offering the local type of grilled delicacy oblong rissoles (only veal meat offered). The meals are delicious, the waiters speak English, the coffee is perfect, and the prices are more than affordable. Here you will find yourself surrounded by the minarets of century-old mosques, bell towers of Orthodox and Catholic churches – all existing peacefully together. All of them are situated within 2-3 minutes walk from each other and you will get easily orientated which way to take following the information signs.

Prizren, Kosovo | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

Prizren, Kosovo | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

When we saw a huge Catholic church that was locked, we asked a keeper, whom we saw in the yard, to open it so as to take a look inside. He agreed with a kind smile and even left us alone to take our time inside, only asking to close the door when we finish.

Prizren, Kosovo | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

You should not miss doing some climbing exercise, too. A V-century stronghold is towering over Prizren as a real guardian. On your way to the stronghold, you will pass through the old Serbian neighborhood. There are definitely many ghosts from the past hovering about here – the youngest one should be those from the events that followed Kosovo’s declaration of independence, when many Serbs were forced to leave the city and their homes. The half-destroyed and plundered houses are seen along the slope leading to the stronghold.

Prizren, Kosovo | © Maria Angelova/www.203challenges.com

When you reach the top of the hill, you won’t be able to take your eyes off the panoramic view before you – Prizren plainly visible and the sides of Sar Mountain into the distance. The stronghold itself, with all its vaults, shelters, secret exits and lonely standing stones, inspires you to jump around and slip in here and there. If you are fond of photography, here you ll have plenty of opportunities to take a lot of snaps of Prizren from a bird’s eye view.

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