The Book of Disquiet by Fernando Pessoa

Fernando Pessoa is probably the greatest Portuguese writer and poet of all time. Walking around Lisbon, one is sure to stumble upon at least one of his monuments or even his last residence – now a cultural space and bookshop. It’s only fair to get to know who this great man was and what he wrote.

The Book of Disquiet is his most famous work, which was actually unfinished and published around 50 years after his death. The book is hard to define – it is part autobiography, part personal diary, prose, poetry, and descriptive narrative. It is considered one of the greatest modernist works, not only in Portugal but in the whole world.

Fernando Pessoa is also known for developing the concept of literary heteronyms – imaginary characters created by the writer that write instead of him. Heteronyms are similar to pen names, with the difference being that they have their own writing styles and often their own imaginary biographies. Pessoa had around 70 heteronyms and the one that was closest to the real Fernando Pessoa, Bernardo Soares, was actually the name The Book of Disquiet was signed under.

Famous American literary critic George Steiner says about the book that it “gives to Lisbon the haunting spell of Joyce’s Dublin or Kafka’s Prague.”

Pessoa’s statue outside Lisbon’s famous coffeehouse: “A Brasileira”.

The year of the death of Ricardo Reis by José Saramago

Jose Saramago, one of the most acclaimed writers in the world today and the winner of the Noble Prize in Literature in 1998, also comes from Portugal.

The main character of the book, Ricardo Reis, who is actually one of the heteronyms of Fernando Pessoa, comes back to Lisbon after having lived for 16 years in Brazil. He spends the last year of his life there, staying in a hotel, spending his days wandering around the grey and melancholic Lisbon streets and having philosophical conversations with the ghost of Pessoa. All that happens while the dictatorship of Salazar is establishing its control over the country.

Discover 10 beautiful quotes on Portugal

Journey to Portugal: In Pursuit of Portugal’s History and Culture by José Saramago

Saramago’s other famous work is the book he wrote to show his love for the history, culture, and beauty of his country. Narrating in the third person, referring to himself as ‘the traveler’, he takes the reader on a journey through Portugal beyond the tourist sites and travel guides. His writing brings to life every city, town and natural landmark he discovers during the itinerary.

Night train to Lisbon by Pascal Mercier

This masterpiece by Swiss author Pascal Mercier is a lot more than travel inspiration – it is a philosophical novel that asks and answers questions about decisions, loneliness, love, and death. The story follows the investigation of Swiss teacher Raimund Gregorius: one day on his way to work he saves a young Portuguese woman from suicide. She disappears immediately afterward, leaving behind only a book by Amadeu de Prado. Spontaneously, Raimund decides to investigate the story of de Prado and takes the night train to Lisbon. His journey leads him through the mysterious streets of Lisbon and introduces him to live under the oppressive regime of Salazar when the wise doctor Amadeus de Prado lived.

In 2013, a movie based on the book was released, starring Jeremy Irons and Melanie Laurent.

To learn more about the Salazar regime and the resistance covered in the book, you might want to visit the Museum of Aljube in Lisbon.

Conquerors: How Portugal Forged the First Global Empire by Roger Crowley

Roger Crowley is a New York Times bestselling writer and historian who tells the story of how the great Portuguese conquerors turned the poor kingdom of Portugal into one of the largest and longest-lived colonial empires in the world. Though highly informative, the book is nothing like a typically boring academic work. Instead, it captivates the reader by turning historical figures into living characters and remains fascinating from beginning to end.

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Joseph De La Cruz and Simon Vandekerckhove met on the road in South America and their paths intertwined in such an intriguing way, that they can now present their perspective of the inward and outward scope of their experiences in their book, “Paths to Pachamama”.

The indigenous people of the Andes revere Pachamama, or ‘Earth Mother’, as the goddess who carries the power to create and sustain life on the planet. Written independently, these are two stories of self-discovery proving no matter our unique journeys, we all travel the same spiritual path. A tale suitable for any traveler on the adventure known as life, in “Paths to Pachamama” you’ll understand there’s more to this world if you’re willing to look hard enough.

We contacted Simon and Joey to ask them more about their story, plans, and dreams.

– Who are Simon and Joey and what are their dreams?

– Joey grew up in Boulder, Colorado, a graduate of a K-12 bilingual Spanish education program and the University of Colorado, Boulder with a bachelor’s degree in International Relations and Italian. After the passing of his mother, he was forced on the road to discover the meaning of life and death. Through his travels he has opened himself up to the universal consciousness that drives our existence, and ever since he has sought to continue his personal evolution by learning to tap into this vast source of powerful energy and endless wisdom available to us all.

Simon from Bruges, Belgium, is a historian and avid traveler who spent a few years abroad studying in Spain, teaching in Thailand, working around Australia and backpacking through South America. Throughout his journeys, the symbolism and coincidences he’s experienced have also widened his perspective to the spiritual dimensions of reality.

For both of us, travel has been a way to get to know ourselves beyond the surface illusion of our physical world, and we both dream that by combining our stories and insights, we can make more people aware of the powerful spiritual force that resides within us all and discover together how we can use it to our advantage.

– How did two independent journeys through South America intertwine and make you a team?

– Fate. We met at a very energetically charged location, Iguazu Falls, and after a short bus ride and a few conversations we got a glimpse of what we could learn from each other. Each independent journey would have been incomplete had it not been for the experiences and input we shared from a distinct, yet complementary perspective of the other. In short, we needed each other to further concepts and ideas we were both discovering on our own after we both had encountered meaningful experiences during our travels. After our meeting we realized that by combining our stories and insights, we were able to gather a much greater understanding of the enigma that is life, which we would not have attained individually.

– How has the concept of Pachamama changed the way you see the world?

– Looking at the world through the lens of Pachamama has removed our sense of physical boundary to some extent and lifted barriers which have blinded us to a greater truth, that everything in this universe is conscious vibrating energy and that we, as energetic beings, have the ability to direct this field of endless opportunity. Pachamama has taught us that we can steer our life experience with our directed conscious intent and take greater control over our lives. Thanks to Pachamama, we have also become much more aware of the signs that are put in front of us to guide us along our journey through life. She has become the fundamental filter through which we see the world.

– What’s the connection between traveling and spirituality?

– There is a fundamental connection between traveling and spirituality. While traveling we are presented with the rare opportunity to be ourselves. Our authentic disposition, our real personalities hidden underneath the costume of everyday life, are given the chance to come out. We are no longer a doctor, a policeman, or a teacher. Our identity becomes fluid, and we simply become a traveler. Without the weight of these labels holding us back, we get the chance to see ourselves in a new light. For a brief moment, we are no longer defined by what we do. What matters most is who we are and who we have always been. In this more elemental state of being, we can look beyond the countless separations and boundaries we usually impose on one another. We can understand that people everywhere are not all that different from one another and that deep down we all share the same hopes and desires. And isn’t that what spirituality is all about?

– Your book is called “Paths to Pachamama”. So there’s more than one path?

– Yes, each and every one of us travels our own personal path towards the highest evolution of our spirit. We all have different lessons and challenges we must face in this life and different ways by which we must overcome them. There is no one path, there is only your path. We must each honor our individual journeys, while at the same time we need to respect the path and personal choices of another.

– Was there one powerful experience during your journey that was a turning point and made you reconsider your lives?

Joey: That moment came to me in the first month of my year long journey. I was sitting utterly alone on a beach in Colombia with nothing but the open road ahead of me. From this place I could see for the first time that I had the choice to bring my past with me on the road, or drop everything I knew and leave it in the sand behind me. I could see that I had an opportunity to completely rewrite my identity, to live free from the layers and constraints of a predetermined identity imposed upon me by friends, family and society back home telling me who and what I should be. Sitting on that beach in solitude, I gifted myself the opportunity to redefine who I was, what I was capable of and who I wanted to become. It was there I began to reconsider every aspect of my life, and it’s never been the same since.

Simon: For me that moment happened in Cadiz. I was out with a friend during carnival, and a tragic accident took the life of my friend that night. I won’t say anything more, other than the fact that the events that took place on that night changed everything for me and have become the bedrock of my spiritual belief. It is all described in the first chapter of the book.

– Your journey to South America has inspired you to be the change you want to see in the world. What are some specific changes everyone can make to make the world a better and more balanced place?

– Redefine your identity. Realize that you are not merely a physical body, but an eternal spark of conscious light vibrating in a void of potential energy over which you have a high degree of creative control. In order to come to this understanding, first you must recognize that an intelligent universal consciousness exists. That is the first step. The second step is recognizing and feeling that we are in constant communication with this universal consciousness, through a personal spiritual connection within an infinite field of opportunity. The final step is to engage in mutual conversation with this energetic source, and send it our desires and intentions with focus and determination so we can allow them to be received, processed, and sent back to us.

An important tool to use in this creative process is your breath. Take the time to focus on it every now and then and learn to control it. By taking control of your breath, you take control of your life.

– What’s the one thing you never travel without?

Joey: My backpack. When traveling my backpack becomes my home. I bring only what’s essential and leave the rest behind and embrace the freedom it provides me as I explore the intriguing paths of life.

Simon: Honestly, every time I travel I tend to take less with me than the last time, as each trip I realize that I really don’t need all that much. So my question is: is there anything that you really cannot travel without, other than your eyes, limbs and sense of wonder?

– What is your next big challenge?

– Writing a book is challenging, but it’s a much greater challenge to have people read it, and an even greater one to get people to the point where they will actually change some of their ways as a result of it. We believe firmly in the ideas presented in the book and are convinced that it can help many people move their lives forward with greater purpose and understanding. Therefore, the next big challenge is to achieve a certain degree of practical implementation of the spiritual constitution and other ideas presented in the book with regard to how we deal with relationships, commerce, money, media, or politics. This will not be easy, but we are hopeful. Thanks to the digital revolution and the technological advancements it is bringing, such as online currencies and green energy, the way we interact with each other and our environment will fundamentally change, and this development will inevitably accelerate the evolution of our spirit.

– Share something inspiring with everyone reading this!

– You are a traveler of many worlds, but ultimately it’s the spiritual journey within that matters the most and will take you the furthest.

***

Paths to Pachamama is available on Amazon:

All images: courtesy of Joseph De La Cruz and Simon Vandekerckhove/Paths to Pachamama

>>> Discover more travel books and interviews with travel writers.

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But first things first. Let’s start with John.

– Who is John Meadows, and what are his dreams?

– The last time I was asked about ‘my dreams’, I was at Primary School in the 1950s. I remember writing down two ambitions:

1. One was to travel the world; which I have achieved several times, having been to over 100 countries (so far!)

2. The other was that I would like to play for England at ‘some’ sport. I have also achieved this, having played in a University Rugby League International for England against France in the 1970s.

I am a retired art teacher who was bitten by the travel bug at an early age: I think it was listening to my Dad’s stories of his time in the Royal Navy in the 1940s when he was stationed in India and Ceylon. I am a graduate of Leeds University, I qualified as a teacher at Reading University and I have a Master’s Degree from Manchester University. I have been married to Norma for 44 years, after meeting in 1967 at the age of 18. 1967 isn’t known as ‘The Summer of Love’ for nothing! Sgt Pepper, Flower Power, Whiter Shade of Pale, Jimi Hendrix etc… the best era to be a teenager. At my age I am lucky enough to have achieved most of my dreams, but there’s always room for more. My love of travel, art, cinema, theatre, music and sport has kept me active, and hopefully young at heart, and my dream is to maintain a high level of fitness and health; physically and mentally. I enjoy singing and playing guitar.

Since retiring at the age of 60, I have had three books published:

“You Did Say Have Another Sausage?”… “Ten Camels for My Wife”… “Sir, Where’s ’ Toilet?”

They are collections of anecdotal, light-hearted true stories, mainly to do with travel, but also many other adventures. I hope to continue with further adventures. Also, I work as a professional artist and I have had my work displayed in major exhibitions. I receive many commissions, including sports clubs. I have continued to travel extensively, and my wife and I hiked the Inca Trail in Peru up to Machu Picchu, a few years ago. We sold our house at the end of 2016 and down-sized drastically; to a motorhome. We now divide our time between our apartment in Spain and touring the UK and Europe for the next couple of years. We will be setting off from Spain in April to tour Scotland and Ireland.

Ugly faces at Angkor Wat

– Can you tell us a story that is a living example of you on the road?

– In the 1970s, Norma and I resigned from our jobs, sold our worldly possessions and set off to travel round the world: The Magic Bus to Kathmandu through Syria, Iraq, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Kashmir. Then on to the Far East, Australia, New Zealand, South Pacific and South America. All the stories from this trip are told in my second book, ‘Ten Camels for My Wife’.

Many of our fellow travellers became good friends. There was a broad demograph of personalities and ages. Many were Australian or New Zealanders returning home after spending time in Europe for a variety of reasons. We met doctors, nurses, teachers, insurance executives, and some hippies.

Being an artist, I always carried basic drawing and painting materials, and this aspect of my travels has led to some interesting encounters on the road…

In Jerusalem, we had arranged to meet some of our friends at a well-known restaurant called ‘Uncle Moustaches’, just inside Herod’s Gate. It was late afternoon and the restaurant was already quite full.

“We have ordered a traditional Israeli dish of chicken, rice and soup for all of us,” said Barry greeting us cheerfully, “It’s called ‘falafel’.”

The restaurant was plainly furnished and generated a friendly atmosphere. We noticed that the walls were covered with numerous drawings, many of them cartoons of figures which we recognised as members of staff. Notably amongst them were images of a gregarious character proudly sporting an outrageous moustache, obviously the eponymous Uncle Moustache himself. Without warning, Colin went over to a waiter and arranged for a piece of paper and pen to be delivered to our table as he volunteered me to do a drawing. The waiter duly obliged and immediately adopted a pose as if it was second nature or part of his job. I accepted the challenge and after a few minutes a small crowd of diners from other tables came over to watch. Just as I finished the drawing to a gratefully-received small ripple of applause, a large jovial gentleman, dressed in an all-white chef’s uniform together with a cartoon-like hat, came over. The moustache was a give-away. It was large, black and luxuriant, fashioned in a handle-bar style which would have been the envy of any World War II R.A.F. pilot. It curled up slightly at the ends and, together with his dark, twinkling eyes, gave the impression that Uncle Moustache wore a permanent smile. He cleared a space on our white table cloth by moving our dishes to one side with a sweep of his arm. He handed me a large black felt-tipped pen and then stood back proudly with his chest out, legs apart and hands on hips; the kind of stance Henry VIII favoured when posing for Hans Holbein. He grinned warmly and gestured with both hands towards his face and then pointed at the white table cloth. I regarded it as a great compliment that the owner of the restaurant should request a total stranger to draw on his table cloth. The crowd of onlookers remained in place and were joined by some of the waiters as I sat looking apprehensively at the daunting virgin canvas in front of me.

“Make it a good one,” whispered Norma encouragingly. No pressure there. Fortunately, my drawing started to turn out well, and after about five minutes, drinks for our party were delivered to our table. Being on a tight budget we protested that we hadn’t ordered further drinks only to be reassured that they were on the house.

“Stretch it out as long as you can,” whispered Colin mischievously as he took a sip of beer.

Uncle Moustache appeared delighted with the finished portrait and he insisted that I sign and date it, which I was happy to do. He then cut out the centre of the table cloth and pinned it up on his wall. I felt relieved that I had passed my test and as we sat down at our table further plates of food were served. Again, on the house.

“From now until Kathmandu,” announced Barry raising his glass “I am going with you to every restaurant. I will save a fortune!”

Portrait drawn by me of a local trader on the road.

– What is the one thing that you never travel without and why?

– That’s easy: My wife Norma, she keeps me on the straight and narrow. After 50 years and over 100 countries together it would be like travelling without a shadow.

Seriously: books, portable art materials and music.

– What is your recipe for keeping it light when you encounter difficulties on the road?

– Humour and a friendly demeanour often works wonders. For example, I organised a tour to Russia and I had to leave my group in Red Square to go to a nearby office for some documentation. When I returned, a barrier had been erected and was manned by two armed soldiers. I tried to explain that the rest of my party were inside the square waiting to visit Lenin’s tomb and the Kremlin. They weren’t prepared to budge, and that’s when I found out that everything in Russian ends in ‘off’.

An American approached me and asked if he could be of assistance. He was accompanied by his Finnish girlfriend, who spoke Russian. So I explained my predicament to him in English; he related it to his girlfriend in Finnish and she spoke to the soldiers in Russian. As the conversation passed back and forth along the line, a small crowd gathered. Two painters on scaffolding even put down their brushes to watch the drama unfolding below. This seemed to go on for ages, as I kept looking frantically at my watch. One particularly long question from the Russians seemed to take even longer in Finnish and then in English. I couldn’t resist; I asked, ‘Could you repeat the question please?’ The American laughed, then his Finnish girlfriend and then sections of the gathered crowd. The Russians kept a straight face, then smiled and raised the barrier. I even received a slight ripple of applause and a thumbs-up from the painters. Thank God for humour.

Alms giving in Laos.

– How has travelling changed for the last several decades?

– There are two distinct sides to this coin:

In one respect, the world has ‘shrunk’ and long-haul travel is much more accessible to many more people. On the other hand, the increase in terrorism, and unstable flashpoints in various parts of the world means that many countries are virtually impossible to visit.

Great advancement in the airline industry means that it is now commonplace for travellers to go on holidays to countries like Australia, New Zealand, America, China, South Africa. Similarly, with cruises: it is no longer exclusive for the rich and privileged elite as it was in the 1950s and 60s. Nowadays, it is perhaps the fastest-growing holiday sector which enables millions to visit far-flung exotic destinations.

However, the world for more adventurous travellers tends to be closing-up: For example, the ‘Arab Spring’ and subsequent terrorist attacks has resulted in tourism to countries such as Tunisia, Morocco, Egypt being severely affected and consequently decimating the economy. When I travelled overland by bus to Kathmandu, the countries I mentioned in Q2 were beautiful, friendly and rich in cultural heritage. Sadly, this trip would be impossible today.

This brings me neatly to another major change: Technology.

When we were on the road there was no such thing as email, facebook, mobile phones, satnavs, tablets, laptops, twitter, or internet.

Our only line of communication were postcards or air-mail letters. Before we left England, we gave family and friends approximate dates of when we would be in a particular town. It was exciting to go into the main post office of say, Damascus, Baghdad, Kabul or Delhi to see if there were any letters waiting for us. Also, Internet banking was unheard of; it was either cash or travellers’ cheques.

Building the Palace in Mykonos.

– You have travelled to more than a hundred countries. From this point of view, what is a common misconception you see many tourists believe in when they start exploring the world?

– Don’t assume that everyone you encounter speaks English. Avoid the age-old British tradition of speaking in English, and then even louder if you are not understood. Try to learn just a couple of words of the local language, such as ‘please’, ‘thank you’, ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’. It will be welcomed warmly. Since I retired I have learned to speak Spanish, and this has been appreciated many times, not only in Spain but also in Central and South America.

Be friendly and polite if a street trader will not take ‘no’ for an answer. It is their mission in life to sell you something, and after all, they are trying to make a living.

Remember that you are a guest in a foreign country: respect customs, religions and traditions.

If you visit a ‘third world’ country, accept the fact that levels of hygiene, street litter, poverty, sewers, public utilities are not what you will have grown up with.

– What is your next great challenge?

– The only Baltic country I haven’t visited is Lithuania. I am planning to travel by train from the capital Vilnius to Moldova, Belarus and Ukraine. Countries rich in architectural detail, cultural heritage, fairy-tale cobbled city centres, and, I hope, excellent beer.

All photos courtesy of John Meadows.

The post Inspiring travel writers: John Meadows’s adventures around the world appeared first on 203Challenges.

If you have already read Alastair Humphrey’s previous book “Microadventures”, now it’s time to grow and plan your first grand adventure. Alastairs’s new book “Grand Adventures” will guide you through the process step by step.

15 years of adventure experience are more than enough to listen carefully to what Alastair says (trip around the world by bike, rowing across the Atlantic Ocean, Iceland adventure – glacier crossing and packrafting with 40 kg packs only, just to mention a few). The book also contains interviews with 100+ great world adventurers who will provide a gentle kick up your backside and show you that anything is possible once you have decided what you want.

Here’s Alastair:

“Consider this: if you saved up £20 a week for a year, you’d have £1000 which is more than enough money to cycle all the way to Japan… Dream Big, Plan Quick, Go Explore.”

This is just an example to show you how easy it could be if you just stop thinking “I don’t have enough money”. It s the same for “I don’t have enough time”, “I don’t want to go alone”…

If this is not enough, here’s what Alastair told us on how to overcome inertia and head for your first grand adventure:

– How would you describe your adventure self in three sentences?

– My adventure self is very different to my real self! My adventure self is curious, bold, willing to dice with failure. It also constantly battles against my lazy, wimpish side that wants to give up, go home, and watch football.

– How does adventure change you?

– It doesn’t change you so much as make you realise who you really are. Your strengths and weaknesses become brutally clear out in the wild when times are tough. And adventures make you realise that you are capable of more than you realise.

– Why is it so easy to dream about adventures and so hard to actually go for them?

– Because the reality is often hard work, repetitive, tedious, uncomfortable, expensive, painful and frightening! Of course, all these things are what makes it worthwhile and sweet in hindsight…

– What is the first step to overvcome inertia in life?

– To acknowledge it. Then to do something about it. That sounds obvious, but it’s actually hard yet crucial. Take the first tiny little step necessary to get yourself in motion. Then tomorrow do the next tiny little thing.

– Is it necessary to be an extraordinary person to complete an adventure?

– No! Very few adventurers I know are extraordiary people! The only thing that separates the adventurers from the dreamers are the steps in the answer above…

– You have included inspiring stories of adventurers of all kinds. Is there a common thing among them?

– See above! I mean it. Beginning. Acknowdleging you are scared, lazy, poor, inexperienced etc., etc., but then getting on and beginning anyway.

– What is the one thing that you never travel without?

– A camera.

– Where is the bench with the best view in the world according to you?

– The back of the Kop at Elland Road…

***

5 things we liked about “Grand Adventures” by Alastair Humpreys

> The definition of Grand Adventure – it is the most life-changing, career-enhancing, personality-forging, fun adventure of your life. Have you recognized yourself in these words?

> The easy to follow step by step guide

> Plenty of ideas for adventures of all kinds (bikes, on foot, rowing, motor, water, climbing…)

> Wise words on adventures by travelers

> Enough inspiration to make you stop and acknowledge you need a change.

The post How to plan a grand adventure – step by step appeared first on 203Challenges.

>>> Our interview with Christopher H. Warren is here. 

***

One summer I exhibited a room of my home. For ten days in August a few artisans and many merchants set up their wares along a route that passes through the old town. Incongruously, most of the objects came from or seemed to be inspired by far-flung places like Central America, Thailand, and India. On occasional evenings musicians invited by the organizers sang pop songs in English.

At the time, I was completing decorative touches on what is now the living room. Using hand-colored lime, I painted the walls a light pastel yellow, and the fifteenth-century wooden ceiling a light blue. Two thin dark lines mark the change from yellow to blue at the top of the walls, with a broad dark border at the base. Around the perimeter of the room I mounted photographs showing the ruins of homes from the side of town that was condemned and abandoned in the 1950s. Although dilapidated, the interiors showed how houses were traditionally decorated, and the photographs revealed the inspiration for my painted room.

In the early summer, as I was applying one of the ten coats of lime to walls and ceiling, townspeople would stop in to ask why I was not exposing the wooden ceiling and simply whitewashing the walls—a contemporary trend popularized by city “sophisticates” who had been buying up available habitations to use as weekend retreats. It became apparent that the townspeople, some of whom could well remember their old homes, equated the colorful, decorated interiors with what many of them viewed as their provincial and primitive past.

During the exhibition, I continued to paint the room and was eager to learn people’s impressions of the photographs and the room. I set up a table with glasses and a five-liter bottle of the wine I make in my cantina according to traditional methods. The surprisingly good “American” wine proved to be a successful draw, and the range of thoughts was both amusing and gratifying. One offended sophisticate from Bologna claimed that my painted ceiling was a travesty and, despite my photographic evidence, insisted that I remove the paint and expose the wood. A haughty professoressa from Florence congratulated me on my “post-modern” interior design. I was more interested in what the townspeople thought, and most were very complimentary about the room. This was surprising to me, as these new sentiments were in such contrast to almost everyone’s initial reservations about the work of period restoration I had proposed. Two elderly men testily asked me why I had gone to all the trouble, but after a glass of wine and a brief discussion, I overheard one remark to the other that being in the room made him feel young again.

The previous owner of my apartment, Ernesto Capelli, quickly recognized the only person pictured in the exhibition. Some time before, I was wandering the empty rubble-strewn streets and noticed that a top floor in one of the abandoned buildings had partially collapsed, revealing a room with what appeared to be a small picture frame and clothes hanging on a peg. I got a painting ladder from my home and balanced it on four blocks of tufo to get up to the bare beams of the second floor, where the boards and tiles had fallen through and been removed. Even more precariously, I then carried up other blocks of tufo, placed them on a beam, and put the ladder on top so that I could pull myself up into the room. As I did so, the ladder slipped and clattered all the way down to the ground floor.

The room seemed perfectly preserved from another time, and I immediately decided to reproduce the pale cyan color of the walls in my own home. There was a single bed, a wooden table and chairs, a small corner closet with some personal items, and a few dresses and shawls on hooks. The brass picture frame contained a photo of an elderly woman. I photographed the room, stepping gingerly as the floor was decidedly unsound and a large crack in the wall indicated that the building was soon to follow others that had fallen into the river valley. I then had to figure out a way to get myself back down. No one would have heard my voice if I were to call for help, so I fashioned a hook out of a hanger, tied the old owner’s dresses and shawls together and was able to pull the ladder up, after many tries, from forty feet below. I told the story at one of the bars later in the day, including the detail that I had been tempted to take the lovely frame and picture but had decided to leave it out of respect—and some remorse for having ruined the elderly lady’s garments. One week later I walked by the building again and noticed that the frame was gone. Nevertheless, I had the photo, and it was one of the pictures I included in the exhibition. Ernesto said that the woman was his Aunt Teresa Capelli—sister to his father. I learned later in the town hall that Teresa was born on the March 14, 1888, and died on January 21, 1944. Teresa was a spinster and had no children. Ernesto confirmed that I likely was the first person to go into her room since her death forty-five years before.

As I had hoped, several elderly people were moved to stop by during the exhibition and recall how their lives had changed since they had left the old town. Others were able to identify homes and owners from the photographs of the abandoned shells. I have spent a considerable amount of time wandering the streets of the far side of town and could only imagine the vibrant life that would have animated those streets only fifty years ago. On another occasion, I was surprised when a short old woman with white hair and in her black widow’s dress appeared at my side. To get to where we were, she must have climbed over a fence and picked her way, somewhat perilously, along a path strewn with broken tiles and blocks of tufo. That had been her home, she explained, pointing up at an open stairway filled with rubble. The black hole in front of us was one of Sorano’s four old bakeries. Every week, she went on, her mother would make the dough, stamp it to identify it as their own, and take it to the oven to have it baked, as did the other families. We chatted a little longer, about the relatively poor quality of the bread made by the one baker in town nowadays, and briefly remarked about the lost skills with which every family supported itself in the past, and we went our separate ways.

As I walked away, marveling at how the woman had briefly brought to life the little corner where we were standing, I happily realized how I could get beyond my superficial understanding of the town in which I live. The quotidian detail about the bakery was already greatly illuminating to me. By relying upon the memories of the old people who had lived in the town, rather than my own romantic imaginings, I could make the town live again, if only in my mind.

I set about interviewing many of the old people I had made contact with in my years in Sorano. I had heard occasional stories and brief histories and legends while I helped Ivana pick her olives, had my morning coffee with Michele, ate lunch with Annetta, or drank wine with Leopoldo in his wine cave, but I now went to them with my tape recorder and asked them to tell me their personal stories and remembrances in detail. Almost everyone obliged me, although some were suspicious of the motivation of the strangely curious American. One would answer volubly, excitedly and tangentially recalling the great history of Sorano, while another would be brief, reluctant to speak about bitter events and the sad “primitive” past. Their collected memories form a broad and eloquent portrait of life in the ancient hilltown. I questioned Luigino, Matilde, and Gino, who had all lived at some time on the short lane where most of my property lies. Peppina and Augusto were born in town, had moved to big cities, but had returned to Sorano and acutely remembered life there before the war.

Maria left Sorano in the 1930s, immigrating to the United States. I found her in an apartment on Webster Avenue in the Bronx. Despite my keen desire to speak again with the old woman in her widow’s dress, whom I had encountered alone on the abandoned far side of town, I was never able to find her. None of my old friends knew who she was. I think of her now as my guiding apparition.

*

Read more about Sorano on Christopher’s website or find the book on Amazon:.

Featured image: The “far side” of town, which faces south west and was almost entirely abandoned when Chris came to Sorano in 1988 | © Christopher H. Warren

Read more travel book excerpts to find your next favorite author!

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***

Now, the dust of the city is gone. And the sheep for sale by the side of the road. And the goats tied to rusty pick-up trucks. So too the chimneys’ smoke, the crowded bus stops and the windowless breeze block walls. The cacophony of squealing brakes and lisping voices, of traffic whistles and loud abrasive horns, sounds only now as a memory; a vague recollection, no longer in my ears, but somewhere in the faded distance.

Above the dryness of the empty steppe, the heat of the air swells and grows humid. The light, spattering rain from the gathering clouds promises downpour, and soon enough I am trundling over the earth, away from the road, in search of a place to camp. Fat drops darken the ground and the sandy earth drinks, thirstily. I find a place to camp on a gentle slope. Far across the weeping valley, a cluster of Gers, white against the green, huddles against the rain, so distant that I see the horses gallop, before I hear the sound of hooves.

I wait in my tent for the rain to pass – the same green yellow walls; the spread of books, and clothes, and maps across the floor, the dried-out mud; the dampened smell of everywhere I’ve been all mixed to make the scent I know so well that now I barely notice it; as one’s own childhood home smells of nothing.

Only several hours later does the sun make its presence felt; light, warming rays shine bright through translucent walls. The new light is accompanied by a beautiful, mourning voice, singing outside my tent. Its tones ache gently through the walls, without sudden turns or staccato beats. It is simply an announcement; I am here.

As I open the zip the singing stops. Outside there is a boy my age; his horse waits patiently a few yards away. He wears a long deep yellow robe, tied with a red cloth sash around his waist. He walks slowly towards me and I invite him to sit down.

His name is Mungo, he tells me. He is a malchin, a herdsman. We sit around my phrasebook, pointing. He is married, has two brothers, and he lives with his parents, across the valley. I take out a packet of sweets I bought in Ulaanbaatar, and offer him one. We speak in gestures and smiles, little else, and he plays, fascinated, with various parts of my bike. He points inside the tent, asking for permission to have a look. He moves the zip, tentatively up and down. Has he seen a zip before? His eyes are like mine when I saw the camels. We sit a while longer, outside eating apples, and he leaves saying goodbye, and we both say thank you.

Later, I am making coffee on my stove, the percolator bubbling and hissing out steam, when a sound startles me. I look up to see a horse galloping towards me, full pelt, heading straight for my tent. At the last moment, the horse rears up on its hind legs and shudders to a halt. Another malchin jumps down from the saddle. He is older, fatter, but smiles as he takes my hand and shakes it firmly with apparent friendliness. Again, I share fruit and chocolate; I offer him a cigarette and he takes one, holding it out for me to light. I pour the bitter black coffee into two cups and watch as he winces at its taste.

Again, we flick through the phrasebook. I point at the words as my pronunciation renders meaningless everything I say. He tells me that he lives alone and, pointing to the clouds, still dark in the sky, he invites me to spend the night in his Ger. I am excited, curious to look inside these homes like no other I have seen, and I hurry to say yes.

He asks me for some money to buy airag, fermented mare’s milk, and I root around in my pocket for spare notes. I give him 5000 tögrög, about £1.50, and he smiles and puts his thumbs up. It is agreed.

It is only as he begins to rip tent pegs from the ground that I notice he is drunk. I call for him to stop and collect the pegs that he has thrown across the floor. It is time, perhaps, to be on my guard, but not yet cause for panic. He sits, smoking a cigarette, and watches as I lift my panniers out, set them on the ground, roll the tent into its bag, and begin to load the bike. We are almost ready.

It is now that he changes. He pushes my bike to the ground and kicks my helmet, motioning to hit me. His eyes have grown hard and violent and he grinds his teeth, swinging his fists and I jump out of his way. For a moment I stand, perplexed at this change of behaviour. In an instant he has turned and we stand, staring at each other in silence. Then he smiles, steps over the bike and comes towards me slowly. I am ready to duck. To run. I am not ready to fight. But he hugs me, tightly, drunkenly, and I feel the wetness of his lips upon my cheek. I smile at him, and return to pick up my bike, resolved to leave. Again, he pushes it to the floor, and grinds his teeth.

I duck down to pick up my helmet and put it on. When I look up he has taken out his horse whip, and it comes crashing down over my head, with a snap.

“Bayta,” I say, “Goodbye.” I am pleading, I realise. He grinds his teeth.

It is time to leave. To do anything to leave. I pick up my bike and push it against him as he tries to force it to the ground, and now I stare at him with anger.

“Go home,” I say in English. I spit out the words. I am scared. Again, he swings his fists. He pushes the bike over, but immediately repents, and smiling, with his thumbs up, comes to hug me. This time I back away. It is like watching a man hovering between two worlds, each one of them insane.

Again, I watch him clamber onto his horse. It takes him four drunken attempts, but eventually he manages it, and I watch with great relief as he trots away, towards his Ger, with my 5000 tögrög in his pocket.

He has covered just a few metres when he turns and, again, gallops towards me. He lashes wildly with the whip as I dive out of his path. He no longer seems drunk, but masterful and confident in his skills as a horseman and he spins around, swinging again for my scrambling body. Perhaps half a minute of this pantomime ensues before his former character resurfaces. Smiling again, he motions toward his Ger and indicates through gesture that I am welcome as his guest.

“Bayta” I say. Goodbye.

He stays there, stuck fast on the saddle, staring. I load the panniers onto my bike and cycle away, as fast as I can.

He is not following me. I am almost certain. But for the next 15 miles I check, glancing behind at every sound, at every panicked thought. I am surging with adrenaline, my heart beats, pounding into my chest and I feel it in my throat. When I eventually find somewhere to sleep, far from the road, I am intoxicated with fear. I bury myself in the grass and look down again at the road, in search of my pursuer, but the road is empty, and I try to imagine him, safely in his Ger, at the bottom of a bottle of airag.

I wake to find my legs stinging and red. In the rush to get away, or in the violent struggle over the bike, camping fuel spilt over my sleeping bag. Now my legs are covered in chemical burns; they will fester, and erupt in blisters the size of my fingers before I make it back to Ulaanbaatar.

***

Remember, the sport is very useful for your body and veins.

***

Sam’s book is available on Amazon:

Feature image: courtesy of Sam Gambier

Discover more travel books and interviews with travel authors here!

The post Cycling in the steppe of Mongolia – a book excerpt appeared first on 203Challenges.

His book, “Terning: Around the World by Bike”, is a story about the challenges he faced, but it is also a story about the kindness and generosity of the people he met along the way. As Sam says, “I am no brave adventurer; the book is the story of a twenty-three-year-old who cycled around the world in spite of himself, his flaws and (often pretty stupid) decisions’. 

We reached out to Sam to ask him about his dreams, his inspiring encounters on the road and his next challenges. There he is.

– Who is Sam Gambier and what are his dreams?

– I grew up in Cornwall, UK, and went to uni in London. When I was twenty-three, I left England and spent two years and eight months cycling around the world and since then have lived in Spain and China. (I know you didn’t really ask me, but…) I believe our experience on this planet should not be confined by the borders drawn across it and I feel lucky and guilty, in equal measure, that I was born in a place that allows me to explore the world more freely than most. I dream about a world in which we recognise ourselves as inhabitants of one shared place, rather than several disparate places separated from each other (though perhaps I should do less dreaming and more doing!).

– What was your motif to choose a bicycle as a means of transport to circumnavigate the world?

– A bicycle brings you closer to people than most other forms of transport could. The barrier of a window pane is removed, as is the ease and comfort that the window pane brings; the world is not framed for you to look at, rather you become part of the picture. On a bicycle you feel each metre, every hill and all the space between us, and I’m sure in some way this leads to a greater understanding of our world, at least its physical form. I am also quite a shy person, and a bicycle piled high with belongings starts conversations better than I do.

– What was the most heartwarming act of human kindness you experienced during your trip?

– I experienced so many moments of miraculous human kindness that it is really difficult to highlight just one. In almost every country I cycled through, people gave me food and shelter, and shared their lives with me. I think the place in which I was most overwhelmed by kindness was in Sumatera, Indonesia. Almost every day, people invited me into their homes: I slept on the floors of single-roomed houses with families of five or six; visited schools and mosques; rode about the towns visiting friends and seeing the local sights and was always met with openness, kindness and curiosity.

– What was the biggest challenge you hadn’t expected?

– Probably myself! Loneliness set in quick, and at the beginning I couldn’t shake the idea of spending so much time alone. Two-and-a-half-years by myself seemed unfathomable, and I felt the love I have for those close to me with a keenness I hadn’t experienced before. I am no brave adventurer; the book is the story of a twenty-three-year-old who cycled around the world in spite of himself, his flaws and (often pretty stupid) decisions. That I made it was a testament to the kindness and generosity of the people that I met; it was these meetings that made the journey worth it and encouraged me to carry on.

– What would you say to someone who considers repeating your feat?

– Do it, first and foremost. It will give you much more than you could ever put in and will be a life-affirming, enriching experience. People will show themselves to be wonderful and kind and you will see parts of the world which most people fly over or drive through. There is no need to plan in meticulous detail, but be prepared; it is a deeply rewarding way to travel, but it is not always the easiest. And, of course, you will not be repeating anything. I feel like when we travel we visit a time as much as a place. Even if you followed a route cycled a thousand times, it would be your adventure, remarkable and unique.

– What is your next big travel challenge?

– In the summer, I’m planning to walk a little way across Norway, from Otta to Odda, because 1.) it has a nice ring to it, 2.) it seems like a nice amount of walking to do in a month and 3.) it seems like it will be absolutely stunning. I’m a little older now, and maybe have more patience for walking; I’m looking forward to living in a tent in the real world and escaping the man-made one with jobs and bills and all that stuff for a little while.

– Share something inspiring with everyone reading this!

– Ummm… that’s put me on the spot! I really don’t consider myself to be a very inspiring person. The only thing I will say, if you are thinking about going on a mammoth adventure, is that if I can do it, anyone can.

***

Sam Gambier’s book, “Terning: Around the World by Bike”, is on Amazon here: 

To get an idea of what you can expect, read an excerpt from the book HERE.

All photos: Courtesy of Sam Gambier

Discover more travel books and interviews with travel authors here!

The post Sam Gambier’s trip around the world: 2,5 years by bike appeared first on 203Challenges.

Here’s Celinne and what she shared in a special interview with us.

– Who is Celinne Da Costa and what are her dreams?

– Haha, what a loaded question! How about some fun facts:

•  I am half Italian (born in Rome) and half Brazilian, and I grew up in the US for 15 years
•  In 2016, I left my life in New York City to travel the world full-time
•  I’ve traveled to 50+ countries and have no plans of stopping!
•  In addition to travel, one of my biggest passions is writing. I do it every day 🙂
•  I’m an avid believer that when you have a dream and make a decision to take action towards it every single day, you WILL manifest it into a reality
•  On that note, my dream is to see and feel the world, while building an empire for myself that allows me to pursue my passions and help others along the way!

– Why is the leap from dreaming to acting so hard for most people?

– The biggest obstacle to action is the fear of failure. Most people are scared of the unknown – that they will fail if they jump, they’ll be worse off, they’ll get themselves in unpleasant situations, etc. We have a bad habit of blowing up dreams and putting them on a pedestal so that they almost seem unattainable.

I’ve learned to deal with these fears in several ways:

1. Trusting myself: every single time I’ve taken a leap of faith, it’s worked out for me. There is something to be said about the words “fortune favors the brave.” Not knowing what’s on the other side is scary, but it often pays off.
2. Breaking up dreams into smaller, doable bits: instead of chasing a big lofty dream, I break it down into mini dreams that feel achievable and I make a plan to complete them by a certain deadline!
3. Holding myself accountable: I make a list of my dreams and goals, and the actions I need to complete them. Visualizing helps to keep myself in check and make sure I’m progressing.

– What was the most challenging part of your trip around the world?

– The quick and sudden shifts in lifestyles was quite challenging. I went from living in a big city, working a corporate job, and leading a very stable life, to traveling the world full-time, having no income security, and no control over the conditions I’d be facing in the places I visited. I had to adjust my “New York City” mindset and shift gears to a “vagabonding” mindset. I kept burning out from how much I wanted to do and accomplish, and had to keep reminding myself to slow down and relax.

Funny enough, my challenges during my journey were 90% inside of my head: dealing with my mindset, demons, feeling alone, and being consistently out of my comfort zone to name some.

– What has putting your fate into the hands of strangers taught you about the world?

– I have developed an unshakable belief that on the whole, people are kind. Words cannot describe the many people who, despite not knowing me and owning me nothing, went above and beyond to help me during my journey. They let me into their homes, fed me, sometimes even clothed me, shared with me their deepest vulnerabilities and fears… I learned that everyone has something to teach you, if you just listen. Personally, I learned to be kinder, more compassionate, and open-hearted with the people that I meet, because that’s exactly the type of treatment that I received.

Of course there are bad people in the world, but I strongly believe they are a minority.

– How has your life story changed after the journey?

– Finally, I am writing my own story. When I was in New York City, I felt like I was living in someone else’s dream. I did not have control over my future. Since I left that life behind, I call the shots: where I travel, what I do for a living, who I spend my time with, and what projects I work on. Every day, I wake up and design my life as I want it. It’s an amazing feeling, and I wouldn’t change it for the world.

– Over 70 people hosted you around the world, all connected to you in one way or another. Do you think it’s a realistic feat for anyone to follow your steps?

– It depends on what you want. I wouldn’t recommend that someone copy and paste my project, because it was designed specifically to cater to my strengths and interests. I love traveling, writing about people’s stories, and staying with locals. I also have no problem striking up a conversation with a stranger and asking him or her to stay over. Many people would not feel comfortable with this.

I think it’s possible for people who share similar interests and are willing to put in the hard work of building that network. If that’s not something that someone is passionate about, there are so many other ways to travel similarly to how I did. You just have to get creative by designing a project that works for you and plays to your passions. There are 1001 ways to do this.

– What’s your recipe for being aware of the tiny miracles in our daily lives?

– Pay attention. The only way to find these tiny miracles that surround us every day is to look, smell, feel, and hear them. Practicing mindfulness and being aware of our surroundings is so important when it comes to cultivating our awe and appreciation for this world. How often do we stop and glance at a flower, just because it’s beautiful? Or memorize the details of someone’s face?

Life is so much more fun when we are tapped into the moment and practice gratefulness for even the smallest things that amaze us.

– Share something inspiring with everyone reading this!

– I just published a book! “The Art of Being Human” is a collection of short stories from this life-changing journey around the world – a journey that taught me that we are indeed capable of creating a life that we are proud of, and we don’t have to do it alone.

With this book, the goal was to get my writing out into the world as well as share some of the most special and insightful experiences from my travels around the world.

The message of the book is simple but powerful: humanity is good. No matter where I went, there were people who treated me with kindness, hospitality, and generosity. Yes, there are bad people in the world, but from my experience continuously putting my fate in the hands of strangers, evil is the exception and not the norm.

The hundreds of people I encountered around the world taught me that being human is an art, and this life is our canvas. My book attempts to capture a bit of that philosophy in a way that’s captivating and easy to read.

Follow Celinne’s stories in her website celinnedacosta.com and on Instagram. All photos: Courtesy of Celinne Da Costa

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Who are you and what do you dream of? I am the author of the travel-themed romantic comedy, Girls Who Travel. Though I’m originally from New York, these days I call London my home and right now writing is my full-time job though I have worked in the luxury travel industry and in advertising. My favorite thing to do (unsurprisingly) is to travel: I’ve been to nearly 40 countries and I have yet to find a place I wouldn’t want to go to. In fact, having to add pages to my passport is one of my greatest accomplishments in life!

Who is Kika Shores and what does she have in common with Nicole? Kika is a free-spirited serial backpacker: she’s a bit lost in life, but I like to say that she’s lost in the right direction. Like me, she is a romantic and an optimist, and both Kika and I share a love for the charming leafy streets of West London (where the book largely takes place). I decided to place Kika in London because while I was writing the book, I was in New York waiting for my British visa to come through so that I could return, so the book pays homage to one of my favorite places.

One thing I can say to all women to encourage them to travel solo… Traveling alone will teach you so much about yourself in such a short span of time. You will learn the spaces of your heart and head; your likes and dislikes; what moves you and what you can do without.

I chose London for the setting of my book because… West London is one of my favorite places and I could talk about it forever. That’s why I chose real streets (like Stanhope Gardens) and business (The Kensington Creperie) to put in my book—I wanted to reader to be able to walk in Kika’s footsteps.

The book shows that great adventures could happen while you are staying in one place too. The biggest adventure I’ve had while not traveling far away is… writing this book! I was in my hometown of New York at the time of writing it, and getting published swept me away on one of my life’s greatest adventures.

Three books I read while traveling… I just came back from a short vacation in Dubrovnik and I read the following: Sweetbitter by Stephanie Danler (an amazingly well-written and gritty and gorgeous coming-of-age tale set in the New York City restaurant world); The Thing About Love by Julie James (a fun, silly, and simple romantic comedy about FBI agents falling in love); and Happy People Read and Drink Coffee by Agnès Martin-Lugand, which I haven’t started reading yet, but OMG, how good is that title?!

The writers I think I could be friends with are… When I was a young backpacker, me and Hemingway would have hated/loved each other. I can totally see us having drinking competitions and waking up in different countries, being like, how did we ever get here? Now that I’m a bit older and more mature (we hope anyway), I think me and Elizabeth Gilbert (of Eat Pray Love fame), would be great friends. We both love food and travel and honestly, that’s everything I want in a BFF!

The experience that influenced me the most as a person/as a writer is… It wasn’t really one single experience, but when I returned from my first real trip (when I was seventeen I went to the Czech Republic), I understood for the first time that I was so lucky to be able to travel and have that experience—because not everyone is so lucky. And that gratitude, that fizzy feeling like I won the lottery, has shaped me. It gave me the audaciousness, the hutzpah, and guts to go out and really live my life wildly and brightly, even to think, hey, I’m going to go out there and do what I want to do: write a book!

To all the people out there who want to write a book I would say… Do. Not. Give. Up. I had to write five books before finally getting published. Just keep at it. There’s this awesome rule of the universe that says if you keep working on something it’s actually impossible to not get better at it. Just keep at it, you’ll get better, I promise.

I never travel without… hand-sanitizer! (Seriously, it’s filthy out there and no one has time for that.)

The strangest thing that ever happened to me on the road was… meeting all the delightful weirdos of this planet!

The most challenging trip I’ve ever taken was…my first solo trip to Italy and Greece. I had taken many trips before so it did not occur to me that I would ever get homesick or find it challenging, but for the first week of the trip, I was so lonely! I did, however, wait it out and I am so glad that I did because homesickness and loneliness are fleeting. I was fine by the next week.

The most helpful thing I’ve learned on the road that could be used in everyday life… There’s no harm in asking.

One travel challenge for our readers…. Spend one whole day without your phone. It’s a horrifying prospect, oh I know, but afterward (that is, if you survive), you will feel so capable and accomplish and hopefully, it will help you really be present and live in the moment. (That’s what tell myself anyway!)

*

Girls Who Travel is available on Amazon (a special promotion runs from June 18 to July 2, 2017).

The post Inspiring Travel Authors: Nicole Trilivas appeared first on 203Challenges.

We had a chat with him about his journey. Here is what he told us:

Who is Tomislav Perko and what does he dream of?

I’m just a regular, everyday, normal guy who did something unusual and extraordinary – I traveled the world, with almost no money. I am 32, people tell me that I am a travel writer and a public speaker, and I dream of many, many things. And they keep changing. But the most important thing is to follow them, no matter what they are.

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